First Ascent of Peak Unnamed P6070 （L15） in Zanskar, India (3)

2024年5月22日 06:00

GAC (Gakushuin Alpine Club) Shuhei Yoshida

GAC （Gakushuin Alpine Club） Indian Himalaya Expedition

Climbing to Peak Unnamed P6070 （L15）

August 12th : Student members and local staffs set up the Base Camp （4830m） in the left branch of Lenak Valley （N33-05-44.7, E77-02-54.8）. There was a beautiful small stream near BC, so we were able to get clean water from this stream. After setting up the BC, student members made a reconnaissance of east face of P6070 （L15）. The lower face was covered with loose rocks and scree was hard to climb. We had to pay careful attention to falling rocks throughout the lower face. We climbed up to 5100m and returned tＯＢC, leaving the cairns on our climbing route.
August 13th : Rest day. Harada and LO arrived in Delhi and purchased new equipment.
August 14th : Reconnaissance of west face of Pt6070. The west face had dangerous hanging serac and we judged that the east face was the best route of this mountain.
August 15th : We went up the loose scree slowly and reached 5300m. The weather got worse and we had snow. Harada and LO arrived in Padum.
August 17th : We carried tents and ropes up to the spot at 5400m, for four hours climbing. After depositing the equipment, we returned to BC.
August 18th : Harada and LO arrived at BC. All members were very pleased to meet again and to have obtained new equipment.
August 19th : Rest day. We prepared our climbing gears by tying strings to ice axes and snow bars.
August 20th : Four Japanese members went up the loose scree and reached at 5600m. The slope was covered with hard snow from 5400m. We used new ice axes and fixed a 50m rope in the difficult part. We decided to push the summit in one day because our physical conditions were good. We returned to BC at 5:00pm.
August 21st : Rest day. When we were preparing for next day’s climbing, a white yak came to the base camp alone. We were surprised to see this white yak, because yaks are usually black. We thought the white yak suggested good luck in our near future.