First Ascent of Peak Unnamed P6070 （L15） in Zanskar, India (4)

2024年5月23日 06:00

GAC (Gakushuin Alpine Club) Shuhei Yoshida
GAC （Gakushuin Alpine Club） Indian Himalaya Expedition

from third

To the summit of P6070 （L15）

August 22th : We left BC at 5:00am and reached the deposit point at 8:30am. We negotiated hard/solid snow and avoided a big crevasse which was around 300 meters long. Around 11:00am, the slope became steep and we started to climb up safely, one at a time. It was very difficult to use snow bars because the snow was very hard. We ascended six pitches on the knife snow ridge. Then we were on the loose rocks plateau. It was the summit of P6070 （L15）. From the summit, we saw many attractive and fascinating virgin peaks that need high climbing skills and experiences. Big rocky mountain P6180 （L14） next to our mountain looked especially difficult to climb. Being wholly excited, we took commemorative photos and went down to our lovely Base Camp eagerly. Returning to BC, we used eight pitches staccato climbing down. The weather got worse and we had snow. Yoshida felt sick because of less oxygen and finally threw up. We encouraged each other and finally returned to BC at 7:30pm. We left no climbing gears behind. It was the most exciting 14hours in our mountaineering life. We named this peak “Gyalmo Kangri”. Gyalmo means Queen in Ladakhi. Mr. Kimikzau Sakamoto reported on this peak, “ We could see the beautiful snow peak mountain P6070 （L15） and big rock wall mountain P6180 （L14） on our left side. The beautiful elegant mountain P6070 （L15） can be called as Prince of Lenak or Lenak Kangri. The big rocky mountains maybe is King of Lenak.” in The Himalayan Journal Vol.67 2011 （ L15 is a mark named by Mr. Sakamoto ）. We were so impressed with his idea and named this peak Gyalmo Kangri, consulting with our Zanskarian guide, Mr. Tsewang Ynagphel.

to be continued fifth