Individual Illustrated Marketing Plan Report - TOGA PULLA -

（学校の課題の一環で行ったTOGAについてのレポートです）

      Over the years, Japanese fashion has been related to the dark, conceptual designs by Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto. However, this is likely to change by Yasuko Furuta (Figure 1) 

 (Figure 1) 

who is a woman “behind Hip Label Toga” (Harilela 2013). After moving the exhibition base og the collection from Paris to London, the fashion brand ‘TOGA’ which unique design is highly evaluated and attracts many people’s attention (VICE Japan 2015). Toga, Yasuko Furuta her brand, is helping to redefine “Japanese fashion” for a new next generation owing to “her urban, multilayered
silhouettes and selected material and fabric by her (Harilela 2013).

First of all, to start with writing a report about Toga, it would be explained a definition of TOGA, which is that “a piece of clothing worn by people in ancient Rome, consisting of a long piece of cloth wrapped around the body and hanging loosely from the shoulders” (Cambridge Dictionary 2018). Practically, Toga also defines “TOGA: Ancient Roman garment made of a single piece of fabric and worn over a tunic” (TOGA a, n.d).
In this report, it describes that firstly introduction of the background of Toga, Toga’s product and Toga’s image. Secondly, in the main body, the report explains full STP and SWOT analysis that the fashion company is facing in the new market. Also, it represents the marketing and promotional strategy for Toga in the new market. Finally, in summary, it suggests proper conclusion and key findings and possible recommendations or opportunities for Toga and their new market.

       TOGA was founded in Japan, Tokyo in 1997 by Yasuko Furuta. Also, TOGA ARCHIVES was established in 2001. Yasuko Furuta had learned fashion design and experienced studying abroad in Paris, Esmod Paris when she was a fashion student. After establishing Toga, she launched other several lines. For instance, TOGA PULLA was established in 2004 as the second line of Toga, a positioning with an “avant-garde edge” (Farfetch n.d) and “pre-collection” (TOGA a, n.d). Basically, in Toga Pulla, the essence expressing Toga’s unique vision, such as Western and metal use is mixed with everyday wear, and broaden the size expansion and lower the price range. Toga Pulla, therefore, aims to get more people to wear pulla clothes on a daily basis (Rinkan a, n.d). Also, there is TOGA PICTA launched in S/S 2007 which expands one-of-a-kind clothing, all old clothes are restructured and they are made by hand. It is an attractive line for those who like an extraordinary and eccentric outfit (Fashion Press n.d). Furthermore, TOGA VIRILIS for men’s line started in A/W 2011. In modern fashion, it seems that designs that combine classic design are inspired by the 1950s. Items using women’s garments are also expanded, and every men’s line clothing present the worldview of Toga (Rinkan a, n.d). For many years, Toga has introduced and presented collections in Tokyo and Paris and debuted London Fashion Week with their A/W 14 collection “Crudity, Durability, Roughness" (London Fashion Week 2018). Toga has extended to the different lines mentioned above, and recently started TOGA PULLA bags as well. Currently, there are mainly 4 stores in Japan; Harajuku, Osaka, Kanazawa, Umeda. Also, there are other shops which sell different categories of items. They are located in Harajuku and Osaka as TOGA XTC, and in Osaka as TOGA V.A Store (TOGA b, n.d).

(Figure 2) Toga A/W 17
This is named “superhero 1980s style sparkles at Toga Archives” 
These outfit at this collection was specifically inspired by the 1980s.

      In fact, it seems that Toga has already acquired a brand awareness so far, and now they are trying to expand the brand’s name recognition. This paragraph will refer to STP analysis of Toga.

“STP marketing is a three-step approach to building a targeted marketing plan. The "S" stands for segmenting, the "T" for targeting and the "P" for positioning” (Kokemuller 2018). According to BusinessDictionary (n.d), a definition of marketing segmentation is “the process of defining and subdividing a large homogenous market into clearly identifiable segments having similar needs, wants, or demand characteristics”. Market segmentation is a basic fundamental role of business. The aim is to subdivide “the market into smaller and more focused on sectors” (Posner 2015). Explaining the market segmentation of Toga, firstly, a market level is grouped into a high-end and luxury fashion brand. Toga variously sells products, for instance, shoes, clothing, accessories and bags, even vintage clothing as well.

Secondly, geographic segmentation points out segmenting markets “by region of a country or the world, market size, market density, or climate” (Lamb, Hair and McDaniel 2015). Broadly, London in the UK is where many tourists visit from all over the world. On the other hand, Shoreditch within east London is for fashionistas and fashion lovers people living in here, hard-core visitors who familiar with fashion and people who are coming to London as a fashion-related work such as a fashion buyer.

Thirdly, demographic segmentation means “age, gender, income, ethnic, background, and family life cycle” (Lamb, Hair and McDaniel 2015). For the age, it affects especially young people, including the 20s and 30s both men and women. Additionally, Toga has already expanded to the world through online shopping mentions in detail below.

Fourthly, psychographic segmentation refers to “market segmentation on the basis of the following psychographic segmentation variables”: lifestyle, personality and motives (Lamb, Hair and McDaniel 2015). In Toga, they focus on people who are an outdoor type than indoor because it could be thought that shoes and footwear are especially required for trying on compared to other fashion items. For example, some company’s sizes run large but other’s sizes do small depends on the shoes. Moreover, Yoshida (2015 cited in Fashionsnap) believes that fashion is still luxurious, Toga’s products are rare in their design that is consequently expensive. For instance, in Japan, it seems like some people reduce food expenses and buy it. If in overseas, wealthy class which have money freely available only to satisfy their preference become main customers.

Finally, in addition to psychographic segmentation presented above, behavioural segmentation refers to social aspirations, self-image, value perceptions, purchasing behaviour and interests and hobbies (Posner 2015). As mentioned above, casual (light) users focus on the price but loyal (heavy) users consider the design and brand quality is important.

In fact, segmentation and targeting are interconnected (Posner 2015): briefly summarising, Toga targets people who like high-end fashion, fashionable youth, wealthy class, and attitudes that express a unique worldview and a fusion of traditional styles and new tastes.

As marketing positioning, there are some competitors as threats rival to Toga’s shoes. There is a likelihood that these brands will be the threat: JIL SANDER, Maison Margiela, MM6, See by Chloe, DARATEYMUR, Nicole Saldana, Marc Jacobs, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD FOR WOMEN and STUDIOUS. To illustrate the comparison with JIL SANDER, a price is higher for JIL SANDER than Toga despite few cutting-edge design shoes. Additionally, DARATEYMUR has a few designs similar to Toga’s but overall, the price is cheaper compared to Toga.

      With regards to strengths, Toga has already become an international brand, after establishing the brand in Japan, showed their collection in Paris and London through London fashion week and catwalks that presented above are. In other words, the brand, Toga has penetrated London, UK. Also, Shoreditch and other east London areas are where many young people even older people familiar with fashion gather. Therefore, it can be said that Toga’s shoes that quite unconventional will powerfully appeal to those people.

One of the weaknesses is probably the price that may affect the sales (Figure 3) because the average price of shoes is between £350 and over £500 for boots, between £280 and up to £350 in pumps, and sometimes the customize shoes become over £2,500. However, people who like the fashion style of mode and street are fond of Toga’s products. In addition to the price, between in Japan and the UK, size description of the shoes is different and amount of production for each size also changes due to differences in body, especially, foot structure and average height.

(Figure 3) 
£340 - The chosen product: Toga ‘Pulla’ unclu boots

Regarding opportunities, firstly, Toga has presented their items in London Fashion Week. Therefore, when Toga starts a new business in Shoreditch where are full of fashionable shops, there are more opportunities for a lot of customers and people to see the products of Toga. With that, the market could be growing.
In addition, it can be both the strength and opportunity, Toga has a brand strategy with the novelty. Actually, Toga does not purposely decide the target and narrow to one area of the customers. For that reason, Toga is always inspired by various aspects, items and ideas in the world, expressing the different concepts by brand. Thus, Toga already owns 8 lines, including Toga, Toga Pulla, Toga Pulla Shoe, Toga Picta, Toga Virilis and Toga XTC (Rinkan b, n.d). That is why those experiences are also an opportunity to have a positive impact on the development of the new market.
Thirdly, Toga collaborated with other bands internationally so far, among them there is the brand in the UK: Barbour in 2017 and PRISM in 2014 (pics). Also, they did with Japanese brands, such as BEAMS and have a good time and Opening Ceremony which is a famous select shop based in New York. It could be believed that collaboration between famous fashion brands often have a great impact on the fashion industry so the information would be shared among them.

There are some competitors as threats rival to Toga’s shoes. There is a likelihood that these brands will be the threat: JIL SANDER (Figure 6), Maison Margiela (Figure 7), MM6, See by Chloe, DARATEYMUR, Nicole Saldana, Marc Jacobs, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD FOR WOMEN and STUDIOUS.
It seems that basically there are a lot of rare products in Toga that is particular about a cutting method and innovative designs. Therefore, the price of the products tends to be expensive and there are few people who pay money. Furthermore, as there are few designs in Toga’s shoes following the trend, the key external environment is a change of sense of values in customers, such as money and the design, not a change in trends.

(Figure 4) Toga shoes 

(Figure 5) Toga boots 

(Figure 6) JIL SANDER shoes  

     (Figure 7) Maison Margiela boots  

 In terms of STP and SWOT analysis of Toga, through the research, it can be believed that one of the strengths is that Toga has been becoming an international brand, currently has seven shops in Japan. On the other hand, there is no retail or street-level shops in foreign countries now but it enables customers to purchase the items in department stores, select shops and online shopping. For one thing, in London, the UK, the products of Toga are being sold in Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Feathers. In addition to these purchase means, there is an availability of online cite, such as Farfetch UK, YOOX, Asos, Shopbop, eBay, BUYMA and online shopping at Opening Ceremony.

Above all, it will be suggested that a new market of Toga built the offline shop in Shoreditch High Street, nearby Brick Lane. There is seemingly a mixing culture in Shoreditch to reflect between contemporary fashion that sells new clothes following the latest trend at boutiques, retails and select shops, and old fashion by selling a used clothing in vintage shops. Probably, unlike west areas in London where many tourists are gathering, uncommonly interesting and one-of-a-kind products concentrate in east area. It might be believed that recent east zone in London has been developing as much as a west shopping one.

Another point about the new market in Shoreditch is to be related to the brand concept of Toga. “Toga is inspired by the etymology of the word — it originally meant "blessed robe" (London Fashion Week n.d). A distinctive world view that blends different materials and different tastes creates Toga’s appearance. In fact, there is already an availability of Toga products excepting shoes at Selfridges. However, at Selfridges, it does not have any shoes that Toga’s edge shoes. Toga has presented their collection in Paris and even in London and experienced in London fashion week and catwalk. Therefore, it can be thought that it should be sold ones that Toga’s unique and original shoes.

      In conclusion, Toga continuing to create a new world view celebrates he 20th anniversary of the brand establishment in 2017, and its attention is increasingly increasing in the future (RInkan b, n.d). Also, recently, Toga were awarded Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix of this year (Mainichi Shinbun-sya 2018). Furuta (Rinkan b, n.d) says that she wants to objectively capture the diverse values and emotions in the world and to mix them. The item of Toga is characterized by a white drape that reminds people of an ancient Roman citizen, as the name suggests. Toga’s fashion reflects various aspects in the world, including a complex woman who can only live in chaos, on the other hand, those who want to differentiate themselves using fashion in the world. Finally, it would be believed that Toga continue to transmit information about fashion trends with distinctive design products.

a poster for promoting TOGA (designed by author)

Table of Illustration

Figure 1 [mage] TOGA. Available from
<http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?designerID=2395> [27 December 2018]

Figure 2 [image] London Catwalks: day three highlights including Mulberry, Topshop, Preen and Peter Pilotto. Available from <https://www.drapersonline.com/product-and-trade-shows/london-catwalks-day-three-highlights-including-mulberry-topshop-preen-and-peter-pilotto/7018684.article?search=https%3a%2f%2fwww.drapersonline.com%2fsearcharticles%3fqsearch%3d1%26keywords%3dtoga> [27 December 2018]                         

Figure 3 [image] Available from
<https://www.farfetch.com/uk/shopping/women/toga-pulla-pulla-ankle-boots-item-10420907.aspx?storeid=9003&size=31&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&pid=googleadwords_int&af_channel=Search&c=629762120&af_c_id=629762120&af_siteid=&af_keywords=pla-385488383003&af_adset_id=47496141593&af_ad_id=218094575186&is_retargeting=true&shopping=yes&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjZLhBRCAARIsAFHWpbEjSMtR8ojvsizViqZYW6LO9gzpVMKA7RzDpj8h5_lYPAAQOS3ODCUaAnfrEALw_wcB> [27 December 2018]

Figure 4 [image] Available from
<https://www.instagram.com/togaarchives/?hl=ja> [27 December 2018]

Figure 5 [image] Available from
<https://i.pinimg.com/236x/3a/9a/4b/3a9a4bf171002c509671c9165cc8f109--toga-pulla-spanish-style.jpg> [27 December 2018]

Figure 6 [image] Available from <http://www.chikoshoes.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Jil-Sander-Milan-Fashion-Week-Fall-2013.jpg> [27 December 2018]

Figure 7 [image] Available from
<https://i.pinimg.com/originals/59/f1/9a/59f19a48c7da76eaf063ee33d6f76f3c.jpg> [27 December 2018]

Reference Lists

Brown, H (2017) ‘London Catwalks: day three highlights including Mulberry, Topshop, Preen and Peter Pilotto’. Drapers [online] 20 February. Available from <https://www.drapersonline.com/product-and-trade-shows/london-catwalks-day-three-highlights-including-mulberry-topshop-preen-and-peter-pilotto/7018684.article?search=https%3a%2f%2fwww.drapersonline.com%2fsearcharticles%3fqsearch%3d1%26keywords%3dtoga> [27 December 2018]

Cambridge Dictionary (2018) [online] Available from
<https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/toga> [26 December 2018]

Harilela, D (2013) ‘Japanese designer Yasuko Furuta of Toga mixed it up with vintage’. South China Morning Post [online] 16 September. Available from
<https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashion-watches/article/1309184/japanese-designer-yasuko-furuta-toga-mixes-it-vintage> [26 December 2018]

Kokemuller, N (2018) ‘What is STP Marketing?’. azcentral. [online] 5 April. Available from <https://yourbusiness.azcentral.com/stp-marketing-1769.html> [20 December 2018]

Lamb, C.W., Hair, J.F. and McDaniel, C. (2015) ‘title’. MKTG 8, 8th Edition. South-Western: Cengage Learning. pp143-147

London Fashion Week (2018) ‘TOGA’ [online] Available from
<http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?designerID=2395> [26 December 2018]

Mainichi Shibun-sya (2018) MAINICHI Style Edition [pdf] 20 November. Available from
<http://macs.mainichi.co.jp/fashion/pdf/STYLE_EDITION2018.pdf> [27 December 2018]

Posner, H, Williams, S, & Posner, H (2015) ‘Marketing Strategy’. In Marketing Fashion, Second edition : Strategy, Branding and Promotion, Laurence King Publishing, London, 40-51, 59. 64

RINKAN a (n.d) ‘TOGA: Pulla, Picta, Virilis’. [online] Available from <https://www.gsc-rinkan.com/column/toga/toga-line/> [26 December 2018]

RINKAN b (n.d) ‘Toga’s brand history’. [online] Available from
<https://www.gsc-rinkan.com/column/toga/toga-history/> [26 December 2018]

TOGA a (n.d) ‘About Toga’. Toga Archives [online] Available from
<http://www.toga.jp/about/> [26 December 2018]

TOGA b (n.d) ‘Stores’. Toga Archives [online] Available from
<http://www.toga.jp/storeinfo/> [26 December 2018]

VICE Japan (2015) ‘Interview: have a TOGA time’. Fashionsnap.com [online] 1 June. Available from <https://www.fashionsnap.com/article/2015-06-01/have-a-toga-time/> [26 December 2018]

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