First Ascent of Peak Unnamed P6070 （L15） in Zanskar, India (1)
GAC (Gakushuin Alpine Club) Shuhei Yoshida
GAC （Gakushuin Alpine Club） Indian Himalaya Expedition
English Summary
Four members of Gakushuin Alpine Club Indian Himalaya Expedition to Zanskar led by Shuhei Yoshida made the first ascent of Peak Unnamed P6070（L15）in Lenak Valley of Zanskar. The team consisted of three university students and one senior member of Gakushuin University Alpine Club.
In 2009 Indian Government opened 104 new peaks for climbing. All of 104 open peaks are in Zanskar and Ladakh areas. Peak Unnamed P6070 （L15） is those of the open peaks and listed as No.45. The application for the 104 open peaks has been simplified, compared to those of other peaks. When IMF （Indian Mountaineering Foundation） receives a mountaineer’s application for climbing a listed open peak, IMF is authorized by the Indian Government to issue climbing permission automatically by their own judge, not consulting with any concerned Government Offices.
Mr. Kimikazu Sakamoto, a senior member of Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto （AACK）, led several explorations in the south of Zanskar. He introduced many unknown virgin peaks in this area to the climbers over the world through his expedition report. We found P6070 （L15） in his report and were fascinated by its elegant shape. We could see a beautiful snow ridge on the left side and we thought it could be a good route for the summit. Several expedition parties had already gone to Zanskar and made their first ascents, referring to Mr. Sakamoto’s information. Especially, two Japanese expedition teams, Japanese Alpine Club and Kyoto University Alpine club, made their first accents in Lenak Valley in 2012. We, GAC Indian Himalaya Expedition, also planned our expedition referring to his detailed information and under his kind assistance.
to be continued second
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