外来食文化から生まれた石川の郷土料理「茄子のオランダ煮」 "Eggplant in Dutch Style" is a local dish from Ishikawa born from foreign food culturem
作って辿る食文化史
Making and tracing the history of food culture
ストーリー
Recipe trivia
我々現代日本人は、３００年続いた江戸時代の後の時代に、生きている。江戸時代、日本は鎖国をし、海外からの文化の流入を制限する道を選んだ。実は日本料理というユニークで繊細な食文化の形成は、鎖国のお陰なのだ。
日本人はもともと海外文化の取込みに熱心な民族だ。熱心どころか、海外の文化を素早く受け入れないと置いてきぼりにされる、という強迫観念に追い立てられているようにも見える。そうやって、お隣の文明と文化の先進大国であった中国から、渡来人を受け入れ、最新の文明と文化を絶えず取り込みながら発展して来きた国だ。日本の古代の為政者は、遣隋使や遣唐使を中国に送り、最新の技術、統治機構、宗教体系、文化芸術を取り込んで国を整備して来た。そして室町、戦国時代には、新大陸発見で勢いをつけたイギリス、スペイン、ポルトガルなどの船団から、西欧の技術や文化を取込み、彼らがもたらした新大陸や寄港地の食文化をも貪欲に取り込んでいった。信長を始めとする戦国大名の異国趣味を見れば、それがよく分かる。
多くの人が、当時から、日本食が独特のものだったと思っているかもしれないが、実はそれは正しくない。米食や大豆加工品の文化、お浸しや煮物の文化は、基本的には中国からもたらされたものだ。食器や食事の作法も同様である。そこに、もともと日本人が持っていた生食の文化を上手に融合させていったのが日本食の雛形だ。現在の中国料理と比べて全然違うじゃあないかと言い返したくなると思うが、これは事実だ。その後に、食文化が大きく変容したのは、実は日本料理の故郷である中国の方なのだ。遣唐使の時代の中国の文献を調べると理解できるが、当時の中原（黄河文明発祥の地で、中国の歴代支配者が最も重視した土地。中原を制するものが中国を制すると言われた）で行われていた食文化は、後の日本料理にかなり近い。油脂を多く使い、炒めたり揚げたり、現代の中国料理につながる食文化が盛んになるのは、中国の宋代以降なのだ。この事実は、食文化の受け入れ窓口だった仏教寺院の精進料理を見ると検証できる。室町時代より前の早い時代に伝わった精進料理は、基本的に油を多用しない。それに対し、普茶料理など後世に伝わった精進料理は、天麩羅や炒め物が加わり、油を多用する。食事の作法もそれまでの個別の膳形式でなく、取り分け形式に変化している。渡来元の中国料理の変化が、そこに反映されている。
江戸幕府が鎖国をせず、そのまま、海外との民間交易が大々的に続いていたら、炒め物や揚げ物、豊富なハーブやスパイスが貪欲に日本の食文化にも取り込まれ、中国同様、日本料理も別の方向に発展していた可能性が高い。宋より前の時代の中国から取り込んだ食文化をじっくり消化して、日本的な変容を加えて同化するのに十分な猶予時間を、鎖国によって日本の料理人は得ることができた。そして、江戸時代の中期には、現在の日本料理の基本形はすでに完成していた。現在の上方割烹料理はその流れを守っている。日本料理という分野が完結していたからこそ、明治維新になって急激に海外文化の取り込みが再開されても、日本料理は独自の体系として生き残ることができたのだと思う。禅文化、茶道文化、浮世絵などの芸術文化、そして武士道といった精神基盤も同様に、鎖国によって深化したと考えられる。鎖国は為政者にとっては政治判断だったのかもしれないが、意図せず、日本文化の深化という大いなる副作用をもたらしたのだ。
We modern Japanese people live in the era following the Edo period, which lasted for 300 years. During the Edo period, Japan closed its borders to the outside world and chose to restrict the inflow of culture from overseas. In fact, it is thanks to this isolation that the unique and delicate food culture known as Japanese cuisine was formed.
The Japanese are a people who have always been enthusiastic about incorporating foreign cultures. Rather than being enthusiastic, they seem to be driven by an obsession that they will be left behind if they do not quickly accept foreign cultures. In this way, Japan has developed as a country by accepting immigrants from China, a neighboring advanced power in terms of civilization and culture, and constantly incorporating the latest civilization and culture. Japan's ancient rulers sent envoys to China to the Sui and Tang dynasties, and developed the country by incorporating the latest technology, governing structures, religious systems, and cultural arts. Then, during the Muromachi and Sengoku periods, they absorbed Western technology and culture from fleets from Britain, Spain, Portugal, and other countries that were buoyed by the discovery of the New World, and they greedily absorbed the food culture of the New World and the ports of call that they brought with them. This can be clearly seen by looking at the exotic tastes of Sengoku daimyo, including Nobunaga.
Many people may think that Japanese food was unique even back then, but that is not actually correct. The culture of eating rice, processed soybeans, and the culture of boiled and simmered foods were basically brought over from China. The same goes for tableware and dining etiquette. The original Japanese culture of eating raw food was skillfully combined with this to create the prototype of Japanese food. You may be tempted to say that it is completely different from current Chinese cuisine, but this is true. It was in China, the birthplace of Japanese cuisine, that food culture changed significantly after that. This can be understood by examining Chinese documents from the time of the Japanese envoys to the Tang Dynasty, but the food culture that was practiced in the Central Plains at that time (the birthplace of the Yellow River civilization and the land that was most important to successive Chinese rulers. It was said that whoever controlled the Central Plains would control China) was quite similar to later Japanese cuisine. It was only after the Song Dynasty in China that the food culture that uses a lot of oil and fats, stir-fries and fries, and that leads to modern Chinese cuisine, became popular. This fact can be clearly seen by looking at the vegetarian cuisine of Buddhist temples, which was the gateway to the acceptance of food culture. Shojin ryori, which was introduced in the early days before the Muromachi period, generally does not use a lot of oil. In contrast, shojin ryori, which was introduced later, such as fucha ryori, adds tempura and stir-fried dishes and uses a lot of oil. Table manners also changed from the previous individual tray format to a serving format. This reflects the changes in the Chinese cuisine from which it was introduced.
If the Edo Shogunate had not closed its borders to the outside world and private trade with other countries had continued on a large scale, it is highly likely that Japanese cuisine would have developed in a different direction, as China did, by greedily incorporating stir-fried and fried foods and abundant herbs and spices into Japanese food culture. Isolation gave Japanese chefs a reasonable amount of time to carefully digest the food culture that had been imported from China before the Song Dynasty and to assimilate it by making Japanese-style changes. By the middle of the Edo period, the basic form of modern Japanese cuisine had already been completed. Today's Kamigata Kappo cuisine continues this trend. It is precisely because the field of Japanese cuisine was complete that Japanese cuisine was able to survive as a unique system, even when the Meiji Restoration saw the rapid resumption of the import of foreign culture. Zen culture, tea ceremony culture, ukiyo-e and other artistic cultures, as well as the spiritual foundations of bushido, are also thought to have been deepened by isolation. Isolation may have been a political decision for the rulers, but it unintentionally brought about a great side effect of deepening Japanese culture.
戦国時代には飛行機はもちろんないし、蒸気船もなかった。だから、国際交流や貿易は帆船で行われた。帆船は基本的には潮まかせ、風まかせだ。だから、辿る航路は、明治以降の蒸気船やディーゼル船のものとは全く違う。目的地の向かって大洋を直線で突っ切るのは危険を伴うので、海流や季節風が変動するのにあわせて航路を決める必要がある。補給のためだけではなく、風待ちの寄港地も必要になる。そうなると、日本に行くための航路は自ずと決まってくる。朝鮮半島から対馬、壱岐、五島といった島嶼に沿う航路と、東南アジアから、台湾、琉球、奄美、トカラ、屋久島、種子島といった島嶼に沿う航路だ。そして、最初の目的寄港地は九州となる。古代から幕末までは、もっぱら九州が対外外交のハブとして機能していたのだ。江戸幕府が長崎奉行を置いていたのも、その地の利を考慮してのことだ。九州方面の航路を監視しておけば、密航を防ぐことができた。事実、江戸末期に、蒸気船が活躍し直接江戸の近くに出没するようになるまで、長崎奉行はちゃんと機能していた。
古代から一貫して、九州は、新しい海外からの文化にさらされる最前線だった。このハブを通って瀬戸内海を抜け、新しい文化が都に伝えられていった。ここ数年、熊本に半導体製造の一大拠点が出現する見込みだけど、台湾にも朝鮮半島にも程近い九州は、もともと最適地なのだ。福岡は、テストマーケティングの都市に良く選ばれる。人口規模がちょうど良いこともあるが、新しい物好きの福岡っ子の気質も関係している。絶えず、新しい文化の流れ込んできた街なので、新商品に対するアレルギーが少なく、新製品のマーケティングにぴったりだからだ。製粉技術、搾油技術、製麺技術、醸造技術など食文化に関わる最新技術も、最初に九州にもたらされ、瀬戸内海に沿って都に持ち込まれ、また、北前船の復路に沿った他の地域にも伝播していった。そういった食文化の痕跡が、九州や、北前船の寄港地である北陸などの郷土料理に残っている。
During the Sengoku period, there were no airplanes, and no steamships. Therefore, international exchange and trade were carried out by sailing ships. Sailing ships are basically at the mercy of the tides and winds. Therefore, the routes they took were completely different from those of steamships and diesel ships from the Meiji period onwards. It was dangerous to cut straight across the ocean to the destination, so it was necessary to decide the route according to the fluctuations of ocean currents and seasonal winds. Not only for resupply, but also ports of call to wait for the wind were necessary. Then, the route to Japan was decided naturally. There was a route along the islands from the Korean Peninsula, such as Tsushima, Iki, and Goto, and a route along the islands from Southeast Asia, such as Taiwan, Ryukyu, Amami, Tokara, Yakushima, and Tanegashima. And the first destination port of call was Kyushu. From ancient times to the end of the Edo period, Kyushu functioned exclusively as a hub for foreign diplomacy. The Edo Shogunate placed the Magistrate of Nagasaki because of its geographical advantage. Monitoring the shipping routes to Kyushu would have prevented stowaways. In fact, the Nagasaki Magistrate's Office functioned properly until the end of the Edo period, when steamships began to appear directly near Edo.
Since ancient times, Kyushu has been the front line of exposure to new cultures from overseas. New cultures were transmitted to the capital through this hub, passing through the Seto Inland Sea. In recent years, a major semiconductor manufacturing base is expected to emerge in Kumamoto, but Kyushu, close to Taiwan and the Korean Peninsula, is originally the ideal location. Fukuoka is often chosen as a city for test marketing. This is partly because of its suitable population size, but also because of the temperament of Fukuoka people who love new things. As a city where new cultures are constantly flowing in, it is perfect for marketing new products because there is little allergy to new products. The latest technologies related to food culture, such as flour milling, oil extraction, noodle making, and brewing, were also first brought to Kyushu, then carried to the capital along the Seto Inland Sea, and also spread to other areas along the return route of the Kitamae ships. Traces of such food culture remain in the local cuisine of Kyushu and Hokuriku, where the Kitamae ships stopped.
郷土料理に残る外来食文化の標識になるのが、料理名だ。「南蛮」「琉球」「オランダ」「あちゃら」といった修飾の言葉が付いた料理は、渡来の食材や料理法が反映されていることが多い。今では「薩摩揚げ」という呼び方が優勢だが、「琉球揚げ」もその一つだ。魚のすり身を油で揚げる東南アジアに広く伝わる料理技術に対する呼称だ。台湾方面から琉球を通って薩摩に伝えられた来歴を表している。「オランダ」という修飾子もその一つ。油を使う料理や黒糖を使う料理に、この言葉が使われている。現在の日本の家庭料理は油や砂糖を多用するが、戦前の伝統的な家庭料理では、油や砂糖はほとんど使わない。明治以降に、油や砂糖が低価格で流通するようになるまでは、油と砂糖はは高級品だったからだ。意外に思えるかもしれないが、和菓子や肉の調理の用途で、都市部の食堂や富裕層から少しづつ砂糖や油の活用が広がって、戦後一気に定着するまでは、「甘辛味」は日本の家庭料理の典型ではなかったのだ。
ここで紹介する「茄子のオランダ煮」は、北前船の寄港地であった石川県の郷土料理で、現代の我々から見れば、非常に素朴な料理だ。基本的には醤油と黒糖しか使わない。ただ、江戸時代から明治まで、「煮物」は塩や醤油、味噌で煮るのが普通だったから、黒糖を使うのは、珍しくて新しく、ご馳走だったのだ。どこがオランダかといえば、黒糖を煮物に使う工夫が、オランダ風ということなのだ。
九州にも、オランダと修飾される茄子料理があるが、茄子の油炒めだったりする。油炒めも当時の家庭料理には、新しい工夫なので、オランダ風なのだ。前の記事で紹介した「にがごいのこねり」にも「にがごいのオランダ」という別名がある。これにも油が使われている。
The names of dishes are a sign of foreign food culture that remains in local cuisine. Dishes with modifiers such as "Nanban," "Ryukyu," "Dutch," and "Achara" often reflect imported ingredients and cooking methods. Today, the term "Satsuma age" is more prevalent, but "Ryukyu age" is one example. It is the name for a cooking technique that is widely used in Southeast Asia, where fish paste is deep-fried in oil. It was brought to Satsuma from the Taiwan area through Ryukyu, and indicates its origin. The modifier "Dutch" is one example. This word is used for dishes that use oil or brown sugar. Modern Japanese home cooking uses a lot of oil and sugar, but traditional home cooking before the war hardly used oil or sugar at all. This is because oil and sugar were luxury items until the Meiji period, when oil and sugar became available at low prices. It may seem surprising, but the use of sugar and oil in Japanese sweets and meat cooking gradually spread among urban diners and the wealthy, and became widely used after the war, until sweet and spicy flavors were suddenly established.
The "Dutch stewed eggplant" introduced here is a local dish from Ishikawa Prefecture, which was a port of call for the Kitamae ships, and from our modern perspective it seems very simple. It basically only uses soy sauce and brown sugar. However, from the Edo period through to the Meiji period, stews were usually stewed with salt, soy sauce, or miso, so using brown sugar was unusual and new, and was considered a delicacy. If you ask how it is Dutch, it is the ingenuity of using brown sugar in stews that makes it Dutch-style.
There are eggplant dishes in Kyushu that could be described as Dutch, but they are stir-fried eggplants. Stir-frying was also a new innovation in home cooking at the time, so it is Dutch-style. The "nigagoi(bitter melon) koneri" introduced in the previous article is also known as "nigagai oranda" too. This also contains oil.
Ingredients:
材料：
プランター収穫の茄子（市販の茄子で良い）
薄口醤油
黒糖
Eggplant harvested from a planter (store-bought eggplants are fine)
Light type soy sauce
Brown sugar
procedure:
手順:
茄子のヘタを落とし、十文字に切れ込みを入れる。
鍋に、茄子を並べ、ひたひたになるように水を注ぐ。
薄口醤油と黒糖を入れる。
落とし蓋をして茄子が柔らかくなるまで煮込む。
鍋のまま冷やして、味を染み込ませる。
調理後に急冷して冷蔵庫で保管すれば、五日ほど保管が可能。
常温でも良いが、冷やして食べても美味しい。
Remove the stems from the eggplants and make cross cuts in them.
Arrange the eggplants in a pot and pour water over them until they are completely covered.
Add light soy sauce and brown sugar.
Cover with a lid and simmer until the eggplants are tender.
Cool in the pot to allow the flavors to soak in.
If quickly cooled after cooking and stored in the refrigerator, it can be stored for around five days.
It can be eaten at room temperature, but is also delicious chilled.
Tips and tricks:
コツと応用のヒント：
茄子に切れ込みを入れるのは、煮汁を染み込みやすくするため。
醤油は薄口醤油を使い、黒糖でほんのり甘く仕上げること。肉じゃがのような現代的な濃い甘辛の味付けでは、茄子の風味が消えてしまう。この料理は、薄口醤油だけの味付けで煮ても十分に茄子は美味しいけど、少し黒糖のこくのある甘味が加わってご馳走感が出るところがミソ。茄子の味を殺さないように味付けするのが正解。
黒糖の代わりに、和三盆を使っても良い。
出汁や味醂を使うアレンジもあるけれど、僕は正直言って、蛇足だと思う。
いくらでも食べられる味なので、食べ過ぎて体を冷やさないように注意する。
本来、食養生的には夏の料理だけど、秋にどうしても作るなら、生姜を足して温めて食べると良い。
乾燥茄子や茄子の糠漬けを使うレシピもある。糠漬けを使ったものは「茄子の塩オランダ」と呼ばれる。
The eggplant is slit so that the broth can soak in easily.
Use light soy sauce and add brown sugar for a slight sweetness. The flavor of the eggplant is lost in modern strong sweet and spicy seasonings like those used in nikujaga. This dish is delicious enough when simmered with only light soy sauce, but the rich sweetness of brown sugar makes it feel like a feast. The key is to season the eggplant without overpowering its flavor.
You can also use wasanbon instead of brown suger.
There are variations that use dashi or mirin, but to be honest, I think that's unnecessary.
You can eat as much as you want, so be careful not to eat too much and cool your body.
Originally, it is a summer dish in terms of dietary therapy, but if you have to make it in the fall, add ginger and eat it warm.
There are also recipes that use dried eggplant or eggplant pickled in rice bran. The dish made using pickled eggplant is called "Eggplant in salted Dutch style."
Guide to where to get ingredients and equipment 材料と機材の入手先ガイド
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