卵２個だけを使う貧乏人のパスタ pasta del poverello con solo due uova(poor man's pasta using only two eggs)
貧乏人の歳時記 A minimalist's seasonal calendar
ストーリー
Recipe trivia
「貧乏人のパスタ（pasta del poverello）」と名付けられるパスタは何種類かある。ペペロンチーノだったり、アーリオオーリオだったり、玉葱だけとか、パン粉だけとか、イタリア人でも人によってまちまちなことを言う。ここで紹介するのはもう３０年くらい前になるけど、一緒に仕事をしていたイタリア人が教えてくれた卵だけを使うバージョンだ。
それ以降、幾つもの種類の貧乏人のパスタを食べたけど、僕にはこれが一番しっくりくる。確かにペペロンチーノやアーリオオーリオの方がコストは低い。ただ、日本人がざる蕎麦を食べるのと同じで、蕎麦自体の味を楽しみたいから、あえて最小限の味付けをするのであって、貧乏ゆえの選択ではないのだと思う。パスタの小麦を純粋に味わいたくて、必要最低限の味付けをするのだと思う。こう言うことは貧乏人は考えない。いやが応でも、普段はそれしか食べられないからだ。
「一杯のかけ蕎麦」という人情話があったけど、あれはお腹を満たすだけの話でしかない。僕だったら、乾麺とかインスタント麺でなく、わざわざ店に食べにきたのなら、かけ蕎麦にせめて海老天の香りがする天かすでも乗せて、ちょっと贅沢な気分を味わってもらいたいと思っただろう。そう、貧乏人の本音は「お金はないけどたまには贅沢に食べたい」なのだ。逆に、金持ちは贅沢なものを食べ飽きてるから、新蕎麦を塩とワサビだけで食べたいとなる。だから、いつもはペペロンチーノを食べている貧乏人が「今日はたまたま卵が手に入ったからちょっと贅沢をするぞ」というのが、まさに貧乏人のパスタの真髄なのではないかと考える。今では卵は安い食材の代表だけど、昔は高級品だったのだ。
There are several types of pasta that can be called "pasta del poverello (poor man's pasta)”. Some people call it peperoncino, some aglio e olio, some only onions, some only breadcrumbs, and even Italians call it different things. The one I'm introducing here is a version that uses only eggs, which was introduced to me by an Italian who I worked with about 30 years ago.
Since then, I've eaten many types of poor man's pasta, but this one is the best for me. It's true that peperoncino and aglio e olio are less expensive. However, just like how Japanese people eat zaru soba (cold soba noodles with just dipping sauce), I think they deliberately use minimal seasoning because they want to enjoy the taste of the soba itself, and it's not a choice made because they're poor. I think they use the bare minimum of seasoning because they want to taste the wheat in the pasta purely. Poor people don't think about things like this. Whether they like it or not, that's all they can usually eat.
There was a heartwarming story about "a bowl of kake soba (soba noodles in soup with no toppings)," but that was just a story about filling the stomach. If I were a restaurant owner, and a customer had come to the restaurant to eat soba, instead of dried or instant noodles, I would want to at least put some tempura flakes with the scent of shrimp tempura on top of the kake soba to give them a little luxury. Yes, the true feelings of poor people are "I don't have money, but I want to eat luxuriously once in a while." On the other hand, rich people are tired of eating luxurious things, so they want to eat new soba noodles with just salt and wasabi. So I think that the essence of poor people's pasta is when a poor person who usually eats peperoncino says, "I happened to get eggs today, so I'll splurge a little." Nowadays, eggs are a representative of cheap ingredients, but in the past they were a luxury item.
明治生まれの詩人で山頭火という人がいた。彼の生家は没落し、彼は乞食同然の生活をしながら素晴らしい詩を残した。その中に「へうへうとして水を味ふ」という詩がある。造り酒屋が出自の彼は水の味に鋭く、飲んだだけで、どこの湧水かを当てることが出来たらしい。限りある食材を徹底して味わい尽くしている貧乏人の舌は案外鋭いのだ。
久しぶりに卵が手に入ったなら、卵の味を味わい尽くしたいから、「いつものニンニクと唐辛子の味付けはやめて、卵の美味さを堪能するぞ」というのがこのレシピのコンセプト。だから味付けは塩胡椒のみ。余分な味付けはいらない。もちろんパルメザンチーズもかけない。
There was a poet born in the Meiji era named Santoka. His family fell into poverty, and while he lived a life practically like a beggar, he left behind some wonderful poems. One of his poems is "Taste the water as it goes, with a 'heuheu' sound." As someone who came from a sake brewery, he had a keen sense for the taste of water, and was apparently able to tell which spring it came from just by drinking it. The tongues of poor people, who thoroughly enjoy the limited ingredients available to them, are surprisingly sharp.
When you get your hands on eggs for the first time in a while, you want to fully enjoy the flavor of the eggs themselves, so the concept of this recipe is, "Forget the usual garlic and chili seasoning, and enjoy the deliciousness of the eggs." So the only seasoning is salt and pepper. No extra seasoning is needed. Of course, no Parmesan cheese on top either.
Ingredients:
材料：
スパゲティーニ（他のパスタでも良い）
卵
塩
胡椒
オリーブオイル
自家製揚げパン粉（もちろん市販品でも。なくても良い）
Spaghettini (or any other pasta)
Eggs
Salt
Pepper
Olive oil
Homemade fried breadcrumbs (or store-bought breadcrumbs, optional)
procedure:
手順:
パスタを表記時間より２分ほど短めに茹でる。
卵を２個用意し、ボウルに各一個づつ割り入れる。一つはちょっと泡立つくらいよくかき混ぜて、塩、胡椒をしておく（パスタと絡めることを想定して、やや塩分強め）。
目玉焼きを作る（焼き具合はお好みで）。
厚手の鍋にオリーブオイルとパスタの茹で湯を少し入れ、火にかけて、油と水が均一に混ざるようにかき混ぜながら沸騰させる。
そこにパスタを入れ、水と油が乳化してパスタに絡むようによくかき混ぜる。
鍋の火を弱火にして、そこに、解いておいた卵液を入れ、箸やフォークなどで、ゆっくり円を描くように、かき回し続ける。
卵が半熟状態になってパスタと絡んだら、鍋の火を止める。
皿にパスタを盛り付け、目玉焼きを乗せる。
胡椒を振りかけ、好みでパン粉を散らす。
Boil the pasta for 2 minutes less than the recommended time.
Prepare 2 eggs and crack one into each bowl. Stir one egg well until it becomes slightly foamy, then add salt and pepper (make it a little more salty as you plan to mix it with the pasta).
Make the fried eggs (how cooked you like them).
Put a little olive oil and the water the pasta was boiled in into a thick-bottomed pot, heat it, and bring to a boil while stirring so that the oil and water are mixed evenly.
Add the pasta and stir well so that the water and oil emulsify and the pasta is mixed in.
Turn the heat on low, add the beaten egg mixture, and continue to stir slowly in a circular motion with chopsticks or a fork.
When the egg is half-cooked and mixed with the pasta, turn off the heat.
Place the pasta on a plate and place the fried egg on top.
Sprinkle with pepper and sprinkle with breadcrumbs if desired.
Tips and tricks:
コツと応用のヒント：
パスタは卵の絡みやすいものを選ぶ。ショートパスタでも良い。
パスタの茹で時間は、追加で火が入る時間を計算して、その分短くする。
卵に均一に火が入るよう、厚手の鍋かフライパンを使う。薄い鍋だと、炒り卵のようになってしまい、美味しくない。
揚げパン粉をかけるかけないは好みで。ここでは、自家製パンの余があるので、パン粉も自家製だ（作り方は、下の記事を参照）。
Choose pasta that the egg will mix well with. Short pasta is fine too.
When boiling the pasta, shorten the cooking time by taking into account the additional cooking time.
Use a thick pot or frying pan so the eggs cook evenly. If you use a thin pot, they will end up like scrambled eggs, which won't taste good.
It's up to you whether you add fried breadcrumbs or not. I had some homemade bread left over, so I used homemade bread (see the article below for instructions).
Guide to where to get ingredients and equipment 材料と機材の入手先ガイド
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*I participate in Amazon affiliate programs. If you purchase this product by clicking here, it will help pay for my coffee, so I would be very happy. By the way, I am addicted to coffee.
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