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夏野菜と豆腐味噌漬けで作る精進冷や汁 Vegetarian cold soup made with summer vegetables and miso-marinated tofu:おまかせ小品集 Chef's choice dishes collection
深夜食堂(ドラマの深夜食堂よりずっと前のお話)」でお出しした料理の小品集。材料がある限り何でも出してました。ほとんど即興だったので何百種類も作りましたが、お客様のエピソードを思い出せるものを少しづつ再現します(差し支えある話は多少脚色しています)。
A collection of small dishes served on "Midnight Diner" (a story that took place long before the TV drama "Midnight Diner"). We served anything as long as we had the ingredients. Since it was mostly improvisation, we made hundreds of dishes, but we will recreate little by little the ones that remind us of our customers' episodes (we have dramatized some of the more inappropriate stories).
おまかせの時間
The inspiration for the recipe
宮崎県の伝統郷土料理に「冷や汁」というのがある。暑くて湿気の多い宮崎の農民が農作業の合間に食べていた即席ご飯の一つだ。味噌と新鮮な夏野菜、魚を使った、食欲の落ちる夏にはこういうのが嬉しい。
そんな冷や汁が大好きな宮崎出身のお客さんがいた。ただ、彼は、その大好きな冷や汁をずっと封印していたのだ。何故かというと、結婚した相手を尊重したいがための決断だった。彼は優秀な銀行マンだったが、40過ぎまで縁に恵まれず、独身だった。そんな彼の前に現れた女性は天真爛漫で彼の理想のタイプだった。ただ、彼女は動物を愛するが故のベジタリアン。悩んだ挙句、彼はベジタリアンになった。外食の時に思い切り魚や肉を食べれば良いと思うかもしれないが、律儀なこの男性はそうは考えず、彼女と同じ目線で世界を見たいと思ったらしい。キッパリと動物食を止めるという選択をした。幸い、彼のパートナーの作る菜食は美味しく、元の食生活に戻るつもりはないようだった。ただ、暑い真夏日に僕の前で、ポロッと未練が出た。「こういう日は冷や汁が美味しいんだよなぁ!」と、思わず口に出てしまったのだ。そんな話を聞いてしまうと、ずっとベジタリアン向け料理を作ってきた僕としては、何とかしない訳にはいかない。それで、有り合わせの材料で、急遽出来上がったのが、このベジタリアン冷や汁だ。
その日に農協で安く手に入れてきた「ツルナ」と「ツルムラサキ」、お客さんが庭から持ってきてくれた「青紫蘇」があった。そして、数日前に賞味期限が来たので味噌漬けにしておいた豆腐もあった。僕は麦味噌好きなので、麦味噌もある。そして、早い時間のお客さんの丼飯のために炊いた残りの冷やご飯もある。そんなこんなで作ったのがこのレシピだ。今年の夏はとても暑く、その時のことを思い出しながら、再現してみた。
There is a traditional local dish in Miyazaki Prefecture called "hiyashiru." It is one of the instant meals that farmers in hot and humid Miyazaki eat between farm work. It is made with miso, fresh summer vegetables, and fish, and is a great meal to have in the summer when your appetite is low.
There was a customer from Miyazaki who loved hiyajiru. However, he had been keeping it sealed away for a long time. The reason was that he wanted to respect the woman he married. He was an excellent banker, but he was single until he was over 40, and he had no luck in finding a partner. Then, a woman appeared in front of him, and she was innocent and his ideal type. However, she was a vegetarian because she loved animals. After much deliberation, he became a vegetarian. You might think that he should eat as much fish and meat as he wanted when eating out, but this conscientious man didn't think that way, and it seems that he wanted to see the world from her perspective. He made the decision to stop eating animals. Fortunately, the vegetarian food his partner made was delicious, and he didn't seem to have any intention of going back to his old diet. However, in front of me on a hot midsummer day, I suddenly let out a regret. "On days like this, cold soup is delicious!" I blurted out. After hearing such a story, I, who have always cooked vegetarian food, had to do something. So, with the ingredients I had on hand, I quickly made this vegetarian cold rice.
I had "tsuruna" and "tsurumurasaki" that I had bought cheaply at the agricultural cooperative that day, and "green shiso" that a customer had brought from her garden. I also had some tofu that had expired a few days ago, so I had been pickling it in miso. I like barley miso, so I also had some barley miso. And I also had some leftover cold rice that I had cooked for an early customer's rice bowl. And so I made this recipe. This summer was very hot, so I tried to recreate it while remembering that time.
Today's Ingredients:
今日の素材:
冷やご飯(普通のご飯でも良い)
手元にある夏の葉物( ここでは、ツルムラサキ、ツルナ、青紫蘇を使った)
豆腐の味噌漬け(次節にレシピがあります)
麦味噌
精進出汁(冷やしたお茶でも良い)※
※以前の記事にレシピがあります。
Cold rice (regular rice is fine)
Summer leafy vegetables you have on hand (I used morning glory, tsuru na, and green shiso)
Miso-marinated tofu (recipe in the next section)
Barley miso
Vegetable soup (chilled tea will do)*
*Recipe in previous post.
procedure:
つくり方:
(豆腐の味噌漬けを作る)
木綿豆腐をまな板のなどに挟み、重しをして、よく水気を切っておく。
味噌を味醂で少し緩め、豆腐によく塗して、冷蔵庫で保管する。
2日後には食べることができる。
雑菌が入らないように注意して保管すれば、長く保管できる。
そのままでも、焼いたりあげたりしても美味しい。炒り豆腐にするのもおすすめ。
(Making tofu marinated in miso)
Place some firm tofu between a cutting board or similar, place a weight on it, and drain well.
Dilute the miso a little with mirin, spread it well on the tofu, and store in the refrigerator.
It can be eaten after two days.
It can be stored for a long time if you take care to prevent the introduction of bacteria.
It's delicious as is, or grilled or fried.
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(出し汁を作る)
昆布や椎茸などで出汁を取る。
動物性の出汁に負けない、本格的な精進出汁を作るなら、以前の記事のレシピを参照。
出汁は冷やしておく。
(Making dashi)
Make dashi using kelp, shiitake mushrooms, etc.
If you want to make a delicious vegetarian stock that is just as good as animal-based stock, see the recipe in our previous article.
Keep the broth chilled.
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(冷や汁の作り方)
鍋にお湯を沸かし、青菜をさっと茹で、流水か氷水で冷やして、水気をよく絞る。
茹でた青菜は細く刻んで、麦味噌と和えておく。
豆腐の味噌漬けは、一口大にカットしておく。
冷やご飯は、お湯にしばらく浸けてから、さっと流水で洗い、水分を切って、茶碗に入れる。保温してあったご飯なら、流水で洗うだけで良い。
アルミホイルなどに青菜の味噌和えと味噌漬けの豆腐を乗せ、グリルかオーブントースターなどで、香ばしい香りがするまで炙る。
茶碗に、炙った青菜と豆腐の味噌漬けをトッピングし、冷やした出汁を注ぐ。
(How to make hiya-jiru)
Boil water in a pot and quickly boil the green vegetables, then cool them under running water or iced water and squeeze out the water.
Finely chop the boiled green vegetables and mix with barley miso.
Cut the miso-marinated tofu into bite-sized pieces.
Soak the cold rice in hot water for a while, then quickly rinse it under running water, drain the water and place in a bowl. If the rice has been kept warm, simply rinse it under running water.
Place the miso-dressed green vegetables and miso-marinated tofu on aluminum foil or something similar and roast on a grill or in a toaster oven until it gives off a fragrant aroma.
Top the roasted green vegetables and miso-marinated tofu into a bowl and pour in the chilled broth.
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ヒントとバリエーション
Recipe tips and variation
茹でる野菜は、季節のものなら何でも良い。苦瓜、空芯菜、オクラ、ピーマンなどがおすすめ。
豆腐は木綿豆腐を使い、十分に水分を抜いておくこと。
ここでは豆腐は一口大に切って使ったが、すり潰して炙ってから使っても良い。
味噌は、他の味噌でも良いが、やはり香りの良い九州の麦味噌がおすすめ。味噌に摺り胡麻や胡桃などを練り込むとコクが出て美味しい。
出汁を冷やす時は、保冷剤を使うと便利。
出汁の味付けは、味噌が溶け出すことを考慮に入れて、薄めにしておくと良い。
冷やご飯をお湯につけると、柔らかく戻り、消化しやすくなる。ご飯を流水で洗うのは、滑りを取るため。
トッピングには、薄くスライスした胡瓜や瓜を塩揉みしたものを添えても良い。
最後に、摺り胡麻や刻み海苔、刻み葱などを添えても良い。
You can boil any seasonal vegetables. Bitter melon, water spinach, okra, and green peppers are recommended.
Use firm tofu and make sure to remove all the moisture.
Here, the tofu is cut into bite-sized pieces, but you can also mash it and roast it before using.
You can use other miso, but I recommend Kyushu's fragrant barley miso. Kneading ground sesame seeds or walnuts into the miso gives it a rich flavor.
It is convenient to use ice packs when cooling the soup stock.
It is best to keep the seasoning of the soup stock light, taking into account that the miso will dissolve.
If you soak cold rice in hot water, it will soften and become easier to digest. The reason for rinsing the rice under running water is to remove the slippery texture.
You can also top the dish with thinly sliced cucumber rubbed with salt.
Finally, you can add ground sesame seeds, chopped nori seaweed, chopped green onions, etc.
Guide to where to get ingredients and equipment 材料と機材の入手先ガイド
※Amazonのアフェリエイトに参加しています。もしご購入の際はここからクリックしてご購入いただけると、コーヒー代の足しになるので、嬉しいです。ちなみに僕はコーヒー依存症です。
*I participate in Amazon affiliate programs. If you purchase this product by clicking here, it will help pay for my coffee, so I would be very happy. By the way, I am addicted to coffee.
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