朝獲れ生しらすの漁師風マリネ Freshly caught whitebait fisherman's style marinade：おまかせ小品集 Chef's choice dishes collection
深夜食堂（ドラマの深夜食堂よりずっと前のお話）」でお出しした料理の小品集。材料がある限り何でも出してました。ほとんど即興だったので何百種類も作りましたが、お客様のエピソードを思い出せるものを少しづつ再現します（差し支えある話は多少脚色しています）。
A collection of small dishes served on "Midnight Diner" (a story that took place long before the TV drama "Midnight Diner"). We served anything as long as we had the ingredients. Since it was mostly improvisation, we made hundreds of dishes, but we will recreate little by little the ones that remind us of our customers' episodes (we have dramatized some of the more inappropriate stories).
おまかせの時間
The inspiration for the recipe
ここ３０年くらいの新しい流行だけど、僕の住む鎌倉では「しらす丼」が有名だ。海の街の割には、特に水産品の名産も無かった（鯵の押し寿司くらい）鎌倉の観光人気に邁進する飲食店が、次々にこれに飛びつき、瞬く間に、「鎌倉と言えば、しらす丼」と言うぐらいの名物になってしまった。元はと言えば、お隣、江ノ島の名物なのだけど、そのお株を奪うぐらいの勢いだ。地元の人間でも、一昔前には、地元の漁師から酒のつまみに少量買って楽しむ以外は、ほとんど需要は無かった。実態は、地元産ではなく、安く漁獲量の多い瀬戸内海産や静岡産の「釜揚げしらす」が使われている。ただ、どの飲食店も差別化のために、釜揚げしらすではなく、数量限定の「生しらす」を看板に掲げている。「生しらす」はとても足が早いので、流石に地元の相模湾産がほとんどで、鎌倉の漁師もこればかり獲るようになった。冬は禁漁で、潮の流れによって獲れたり獲れなかったりするので、飲食店同士でも、漁獲量の少ない日は、熾烈な取り合い合戦が繰り広げられる。それでも、獲れすぎた日は流石に漁師も捌ききれず、安く譲ってもらえるので、僕の深夜食堂でも出していた。相模湾のしらすはほとんどが「カタクチイワシ」の稚魚で弱く、半日の間にちゃんと手当をしないと、午後には劣化してしまう。どんなにちゃんと手当（きちんと鰯以外の魚介類の幼生を取り除き、塩水で洗ってチルドの温度帯で保管する）しても、深夜までは保たない。そこで、しらすが手に入ると、僕はマリネにしてしまうのが常だった。茹でても良いのだけど、それでは、漁獲直後に速攻で茹でる他県産の「釜揚げしらす」以上の品質にはならない。
It's a new trend that has only been around for the last 30 years, but in Kamakura, where I live, "Shirasu-don" is famous. Kamakura is a seaside town, but it doesn't have any particular seafood specialties (except for horse mackerel oshizushi). Restaurants that are working hard to capitalize on the city's tourist popularity have jumped on the trend, and in the blink of an eye, it has become a specialty that people say "Kamakura means shirasu-don." It was originally a specialty of the neighboring island of Enoshima, but it has now become so popular that it is stealing the show. Even among locals, there was almost no demand for it a long time ago, except for buying small amounts from local fishermen to enjoy with alcohol. In reality, they use "kamaage shirasu" (boiled whitebait) from the Seto Inland Sea or Shizuoka, which is cheap and has a large catch, rather than locally produced. However, in order to differentiate themselves, all the restaurants advertise their limited-edition "raw whitebait" instead of kamaage shirasu. "Raw whitebait" is very fast-perishing, so as expected, most of it comes from the local Sagami Bay, and fishermen in Kamakura have come to catch only this. However, fishing is prohibited in winter, and the catch depends on the tide, so even restaurants compete fiercely for it on days when the catch is low. However, on days when the catch is too much, the fishermen cannot sell it and they sell it cheaply, so I served it at Midnight Diner. Most of the whitebait from Sagami Bay are fry of "Japanese anchovy" and are weak, so if they are not properly treated within half a day, they will deteriorate by the afternoon. No matter how well you treat it (remove the larvae of seafood other than sardines, wash it in salt water, and store it at a refrigerated temperature), it will not last until midnight. So when I get whitebait, I always marinate it. It would be fine to boil it, but that would not achieve a quality better than the "kamaage shirasu" (boiled whitebait) produced in other prefectures, which is boiled immediately after being caught.
僕のレシピは、「caviale calabrese（カラブリアのキャビア）」とも呼ばれる、イタリアのカラブリア州の名物料理を参考に、和風にアレンジしたものだ。オリジナルは、獲れたてのしらすをオリーブオイルに漬け、唐辛子とハーブで風味をつけたもの。日本料理で言えば、沖漬けとか塩辛にあたる。残念ながら、ＥＵでは資源保護のために鰯や鯖のしらすは禁漁になってしまったので、今では昔と同じレシピでは食べられないのだけど。
これを作っておくと、当日は生しらすに近い食感で、日が経つにつれて、良い感じに馴れてきて、１週間は楽しめる。生姜醤油のお決まりの食べ方に飽きた地元民にも、飛び込んできた他県のお客さんにも、食べてもらえる。そのままで、ワインや日本酒ともペアリングできる。パスタに合わせたり、フリットにしたり、オムレツにしたり、パンに乗せたり、もちろん丼にしても良い。お持ち帰り用に瓶に詰めたものは珍味として大人気だった。
My recipe is a Japanese adaptation of a specialty dish from the Calabria region of Italy, also known as "caviale calabrese" (Calabrian caviar).. The original version is made by soaking freshly caught whitebait in olive oil and flavoring it with chili peppers and herbs. In Japanese terms, it is equivalent to okizuke or shiokara. Unfortunately, the EU has banned the fishing of sardines and whitebait mackerel in order to protect marine resources, so we can no longer eat them in the same recipes as in the past.
If you make this, it will have a texture similar to raw whitebait on the day, and as the days go by, it will become more familiar and you can enjoy it for a week. It can be enjoyed by locals who are tired of the usual ginger soy sauce way of eating it, and by customers from other prefectures who have dropped in. It can be paired as it is with wine or sake. It can be paired with pasta, frits, omelets, on bread, and of course in a rice bowl. Bottled versions for takeaway were very popular as a delicacy.
Today's Ingredients:
今日の素材：
地元の漁師から譲ってもらった朝獲れの生しらす（冷凍生しらすでも良い）
レモン
オリーブオイル
薄口醤油
柚子胡椒
Freshly caught fresh whitebait given to us by a local fisherman (frozen raw whitebait is fine too)
Lemon
Olive oil
Light type soy sauce
Yuzu pepper
procedure:
つくり方:
生しらすは、手に入れたらすぐに使う。
生しらすにオリーブオイル、レモン、薄口醤油、柚子胡椒を加えて、よくかき混ぜる。
消毒した保存容器に入れて冷蔵庫で保存する。
すぐに食べても美味しいが、数日置いて熟成させても、違う味わいを楽しめる。
Use raw shirasu as soon as you get it.
Add olive oil, lemon, light soy sauce and lemon to the raw shirasu and stir well.
Place in a sterilized storage container and store in the refrigerator.
It's delicious to eat right away, but you can also enjoy a different flavor by leaving it to mature for a few days.
ヒントとバリエーション
Recipe tips and variation
生しらすは状態の良いものを使うこと。透明感とハリがあって、溶けていないものを選ぶ。できれば、午前中に漁協の直売所か仕入と鮮度管理の良い魚屋などで、朝撮れたものを手に入れたい。業者によって、同じ朝獲れでも、保存技術の違いで、随分鮮度が違う。
静岡の由比産など、高い冷凍技術を使った産地の製品なら、冷凍生しらすでも美味しくできる。冷凍を使う場合は、一晩冷蔵庫でゆっくり解凍すること。
ここでは、味付けに薄口醤油を使っているが、自然塩、魚醤などを使っても良い。好みで濃口醬油を使っても良いが、ワインなど、洋酒とのペアリングは難しくなる。
レモンの代わりに、ライムや他の柑橘類を使っても良い。
柚子胡椒の代わりに、かんずりやホットチリソース、ハリッサなどを使っても良い。
塩分を濃いめにすれば、長期保存もできる。
このレシピは、醤油の味の強い日本的な味付けにも寄せていないし、多量の唐辛子やトマトなど個性の強い素材も入れていないので、常備菜として作っておくと、色々な料理に展開できる。ご飯のほか、豆腐やパンに乗せたり、オムレツ、フリットやかき揚げにしたり、コロッケにしたり、パスタと和えたり、パンなどに練り込んでも良い。以前紹介した揚げパン「ゼッポリーニ」に練り込むのもありだ。
Use raw whitebait that is in good condition. Choose ones that are clear, firm, and not melted. If possible, buy freshly caught whitebait in the morning from a fishery cooperative's direct sales store or a fishmonger who has good purchasing and freshness management. Even if it is the same morning catch, the freshness can vary greatly depending on the dealer, depending on the preservation technique.
Frozen raw whitebait can be delicious if it is from a production area that uses advanced freezing techniques, such as Yui in Shizuoka. If you use frozen whitebait, thaw it slowly in the refrigerator overnight.
Here, light soy sauce is used for seasoning, but natural salt or fish sauce can also be used. You can use dark soy sauce if you like, but dark soy sauce has a strong flavor and it is difficult to pair it with wine or other Western alcoholic drinks.
Lime or other citrus fruits can be used instead of lemon.
Kanzuri, hot chili sauce, or harissa can be used instead of yuzu kosho.
If you use a higher salt content, it can be stored for a long time.
This recipe does not lean towards the strong soy sauce flavor of Japanese cuisine, nor does it contain any strong ingredients such as a lot of chili peppers or tomatoes, so if you keep it on hand, you can use it in a variety of dishes. In addition to rice, it can be served on tofu or bread, made into omelets, fritters, kakiage, croquettes, mixed with pasta, or kneaded into bread. It can also be kneaded into the fried bread "zeppolini" that we introduced previously.
Guide to where to get ingredients and equipment 材料と機材の入手先ガイド
※Amazonのアフェリエイトに参加しています。もしご購入の際はここからクリックしてご購入いただけると、コーヒー代の足しになるので、嬉しいです。ちなみに僕はコーヒー依存症です。
*I participate in Amazon affiliate programs. If you purchase this product by clicking here, it will help pay for my coffee, so I would be very happy. By the way, I am addicted to coffee.
この記事が気に入ったらサポートをしてみませんか？