Everybody Was Getting Barreled
1/6/2021 Tue.
【Day 439】
The winter has officially begun today.
In Japan, there is no definition of the start date of winter. But here in Australia, there is it.
I didn’t know that until Natsumo sent me a message about that.
The waves were still holding their size around 3 feet overhead, and occasionally double overhead. Everybody was getting barreled at North Steyne when I arrived there.
However, my mindset wasn’t prepared appropriately.
Because all surfers seemed to be experts and the bank was quite crowded, and top of that, I was really scared of the too fast, too hollow, and too powerful waves.
So I walked down to the South corner like yesterday. The size of waves there was almost half compared to the North Steyne.
I could surf getting relaxed there but I regretted that I didn’t go for the North Steyne barrel session.
I really feel that I need to train not only my physical but also my mind.
I hope I can charge waves like today with a smile soon.
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