Surfed 2 days In A Row

22/9/2020 Tue.

【Day 185】

I hadn’t plan going surfing today, but when I realized it’s a holiday in Japan and I didn’t have any meeting today, I couldn’t help to go surfing.

Actually, my muscles had been sored due to yesterday’s surfing. But the waves were rewarded.

The swell was coming from straight east and slight offshore wind from the west, the size of the waves still kept chest to shoulder high. The biggest ones were overhead high.

After I surfed for 2 hours, the waves still looked great so I wanted to keep surfing more. But I was too exhausted to do because this was my first time to surf 2 days in a row since we moved over here.

Anyway, I felt like my life as a surfer has got back on track finally.