Surfing in Narrabeen

16/6/2020 Tue.

【Day 87】

Kentaro, my only Japanese friend here who is an illustrator based in the northern beach of Sydney, took me to North Narrabeen to have a couple of surf.

Sun was out, the air and the water were relatively warm, there were quite a few surfers out there, the straight offshore wind blew from east north, it’s kind of great condition for me even waves were waist to chest high small.

At the north end of the point, waves were a bit bigger than the main point and looked perfect but there were a lot of great local surfers and they ripped every single wave perfectly, so we couldn’t even get closer there.

I never mind, I prefer empty, mellow point rather than great but competitive point to surf always.

Waves were consistent but we had enough time for having chat while we were waiting for set coming. This is always the best part of surfing with friends.

Kentaro is a really good surfer. I saw him surfing for the first time, I was impressed. He draws great line not only on the walls but also on the waves.

About me, it’s horrible. It’s only the third time to surf since I came to Australia, so I felt like I forgot how to surf and got too old as well. I was uncomfortable in paddling, catching waves, generating speed, and every turn.

That being said, 2 hours of surfing got rid of my stress. It’s sort of detox for me.

On the way home, I heard Kentaro talking to the customer service of home delivery trader on the phone. His English sounded like an almost native English speaker. 

It might be natural because he has lived in Australia for 17 years. But after that, I thought I should study English harder for me.