Rehab Surf

20/10/2021 Wed.

【DM 580】

I surfed for the first time in three and half months today, finally. It felt long.

Somehow, I was a bit nervous and excited at the same time this morning. I thought I should choose the spot I surf today carefully because I didn’t want to surf at a crowded spot. 

After all, I decided to go to Curl Curl. Luckily, it was relatively less crowded there.

The waves looked chest-high to shoulder-high and pretty good. But I felt it was better for me if it would have been smaller because it was a sort of rehab surf today.

As I expected, paddling for the first time in three months was pretty hard.

And I felt very wobbly when I stood up on my board. Some head-high sets were coming, but I never made them and went over the fall.

I caught 25 waves but there was no wave I was satisfied.

That being said, I realized that surfing is great again, and I felt so good after all.