Surf Monday
19/10/2020 Mon.
【Day 211】
The bus I got on was completely empty when I went to Manly to surf. It was one later than usual. It felt like I chartered it and quite comfortable because I always am worried if my surfboard is annoying especially when a bus is crowded.
The waist-high waves were quite massy and definitely for long boarders. But the water was getting warmer as the wind blew from south strongly(it's completely opposite from in Japan. Because it's southern hemisphere.) and there were few people out there, so I could feel comfortable and have fun in the water.
After all, I caught more than 20 waves in 2 and half hours which was pretty much more than usual.
So, surfing on Monday is a great habit. I like it.
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