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Got Punched By My Surfboard
22/6/2021 Tue.
【Day 460】
As I told you, I was back in the water today.
I went surfing to Curl Curl. The 4-foot waves were a bit fat but still rippable. There were few surfers out there, so I was excited about it.
However, I felt my body was a bit heavy as it's been almost 1 week since the last time I surfed. So I couldn’t ride waves well.
When I was thinking that the next wave was going to be the last one, it happened.
The powerful wave was breaking in right front of me, so I tried to do duck diving as deep as possible.
But my surfboard slipped off my both hands in the water and hit my face so hard. It felt like I got punched by a hard puncher.
As soon as I popped up above the water, I touched my face and realized I was bleeding. I wasn’t sure if it’s terrible or not because I didn’t feel any pain at that time.
When I got out of the water, a surfer who was about to surf came up and talked to me, like "Are you OK?" So I asked him to see if it’s terrible or not.
He saw my scar closely and told me he didn’t think I needed to stitch it. I was so relieved to hear that.
Now it stopped bleeding but I feel pain in the bone of orbit. It might get slightly a fracture on it.
I have gotten the quite same injury 15 years ago. Surfboards can be weapons.
Even though my lower back was just healed, I got injured again...it feels like I got sort of punished...
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