Dig Japan vol.17 “Nerikiri (練り切り)”

Nerikiri is wagashi officially called “Nerikiri-an,” and refers to both the material of the confectionery and the type of Japanese confectionery. Nerikiri-an is mainly made by kneading bean paste, sugar, and binders such as yams. It was already made in the late Edo period and it differs in ingredients and producing methods depending on the regions, Kanto and Kansai, and wagashi confectioners.

Nerikiri (Photography by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨)

First of all, according to the Japan Wagashi Association, wagashi can be broadly divided into three types: namagashi, han'namagashi, and higashi. The difference between these is the moisture content, with namagashi having a moisture content of 30-40% or more, and it is further divided into four types: jonamagashi, asanamagashi, chunamagashi, and han'namagashi.

Nerikiri is classified as jonamagashi, a high-grade confectionery, and is used on special occasions and to entertain special guests. In the tea ceremony, it is also called omogashi, and seasonal one is served.

For instance, many of them have motifs of cherry blossoms, rape blossoms, and azaleas in spring, dianthus, morning glories, and fireworks in summer, autumn leaves, chrysanthemums, persimmons, and rabbits in autumn, and camellias, snow, and plums in winter. Jonamagashi has developed along with the culture of tea ceremony.

A wagashi confectioner based in Miyazaki, Nanamangoku-kashiho's nerikiri (Photography via Nanamangoku-kashiho)

In the Edo period, society stabilized and the economy developed, sugar imports increased, and Japanese confectionery specialty stores were born. Kyoto sweets, which are associated with the beauty of nature, gradually gained a reputation as luxury foods, and the number of Kyoto confectionery shops increased throughout Edo and other areas.

These sweets were called jogashi because they used high-quality white sugar at the time, and were eaten by feudal lords, nobles, and wealthy townspeople at ceremonies, gift exchanges, tea ceremonies, etc. Modern-day nerikiri is one such example.

The base of nerikiri is white bean paste called shiroan, made by boiling and mashing white kidney beans or white azuki beans, then sweetening them with sugar or honey. Shiroan and the binder, gyuhi (kneaded rice flour with sugar or starch syrup) are put into a pot, kneaded thoroughly with a wooden spatula, strained to make it smooth, torn into pieces, and cooled.

The torn pieces are mixed together, kneaded, and torn again. By repeating this process several times, air is introduced and the color changes from yellow to white. It got its name from the fact that it is kneaded thoroughly during production.

After that, it is colored with food coloring, pressed into wooden molds and finished with fingertips or a spatula into beautiful seasonal shapes. The binder varies depending on the region and wagashi shop; for instance, in Kyoto, tsukuneimo, also known as yamatoimo, is used.

A wagashi confectioner based in Tochigi, Beniya-miyake's joyo-nerikiri (Photography via Beniya-miyake)

There are three main types of nerikiri sold at Japanese confectionery stores: nerikiri, joyo-nerikiri, and konashi. Furthermore, the characteristics differ between Kanto and Kansai, and depending on the confectionery store.

Kanto nerikiri is characterized by adding gyuhi to shiroan and kneading it, with emphasis on the finish after coloring, while Kansai joyo-nerikiri is made by mixing steamed and strained tsukuneimo or yams into shiroan. Both have a smooth texture.

Konashi, which is popular mainly in Kyoto, is made by mixing wheat flour or glutinous rice flour into shiroan and steaming it, and is often served as a sweet at the tea ceremony. It is made by mixing sugar while it is hot to adjust the hardness, and has a heavier and firmer texture than nerikiri.

This article was written by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨, working as a freelance translator and press for overseas apparel brands in Japan, with the purpose of broadening her insight into the Japanese traditional culture.