Dig Japan vol.15 “Wakaayu (若鮎)”

Wakaayu is wagashi mainly made by wrapping gyuhi in castella dough. It is shaped like an ayu (sweetfish) and is known as a specialty of Gifu and Kyoto prefectures. It is said to have originated from the Japanese sweet “Chofu” that originated in Okayama prefecture, and although the exact place of origin is unclear, Gifu and Kyoto prefectures are often cited.

A wagashi confectioner, Sentaro's wakaayu (Photography by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨)

Wakaayu is a sweetfish-shaped Japanese confectionery known as a specialty of Gifu and Kyoto prefectures. It is made by wrapping gyuhi in a thin, oval-shaped baked castella cake, and marking the face and tail of a sweetfish with the tip of a heated thin iron rod.

The way it is made varies depending on the region; in Kyoto and Gifu prefectures, it only contains gyuhi, while in the Kanto region it contains gyuhi and azuki bean paste. There are also differences depending on the shop, such as the thickness of the castella dough and the use of white bean paste or strained bean paste instead of gyuhi.

It used to be sold in early summer when the sweetfish fishing ban was lifted in June, but in recent years it is sold year-round in Gifu prefecture. In seasons other than summer, it is sold in shapes and with names other than ayu, and is also called “Ayugashi,” “Chiayu,” “Noboriayu,” “Katsuraayu” and other names.

Wakaayu that I made at wagashi class (Photography by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨)

It is believed that the prototype of this confectionery is the rectangular Japanese confectionery "Chofu" that originated in Okayama Prefecture. Chofu is said to have been invented by a confectioner in Kyoto during the Edo period, and the method of wrapping gyuhi in castella dough is very similar to the method of making wakaayu. Its birthplace is unclear, but Gifu Prefecture, Kyoto Prefecture, and Aichi Prefecture are often cited.

The wakaayu motif comes from the traditional fishing method of "Ukai (cormorant fishing)," which has been practiced since ancient times in the Oi River in Kyoto and the Nagara River in Gifu, where waterfowl are used to catch fish such as sweetfish. It is believed that wakaayu was born when Chofu spread to various regions where Ukai was popular, and its shape changed to ayu.

This article was written by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨, working as a freelance translator and press for overseas apparel brands in Japan, with the purpose of broadening her insight into the Japanese traditional culture.