Dig Japan vol.23 “Tsuyabukusa (艶袱紗)”

Tsuyabukusa is wagashi made by wrapping azuki bean paste in a dough made from flour, eggs, sugar, water, and leavening agents, and baking it. Air bubbles are exposed on the surface of the baked dough, giving it a honeycomb-like appearance. It is said to have been named after the fukusa used in the tea ceremony, and has long been popular, especially in Kanazawa, where tea culture flourished.

A wagashi confectioner, Seikanin's tsuyafukusa (Photography via Seikanin)

Tsuyabukusa is made using a unique method called “reverse kneading,” and is characterized by its unique appearance with countless air bubbles on the surface. To make it, first dissolve wheat flour in water and mix well, then add eggs, sugar, and baking powder to make the batter, which is then poured onto an iron plate and baked. At this point, countless holes caused by the air bubbles appear on the surface of the batter, creating a honeycomb shape.

In baked goods, eggs are often mixed first to prevent the release of gluten, but in this wagashi, flour is mixed before eggs and sugar. This is the secret to creating air bubbles on the surface of the baked dough, giving it a fluffy texture like a fukusa cloth. It is common to wrap the bean paste in dough with the air bubbles on the outside, but some are folded or shaped into a tube. Some wagashi shops also use cream instead of azuki bean paste.

The name “Tsuyabukusa” is said to have come from its resemblance to the airy, soft, shiny fukusa used in the tea ceremony and for ceremonial occasions. Its origins is uncertain, but it is mentioned in cookbooks from the Meiji period, and is thought to have appeared in history at least during that period. It is said to have originated in Kanazawa, where tea culture flourished, and is now popular throughout Japan.

This article was written by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨, working as a freelance translator and press for overseas apparel brands in Japan, with the purpose of broadening her insight into the Japanese traditional culture.