Dig Japan vol.9 “Kuzu-mochi (葛餅/久寿餅)”

Kuzu-mochi (葛餅/久寿餅) is one of wagashi, and although it has the same name, there are two types, mainly in Kansai and Kanto, with different recipes. Both types are often enjoyed with kuromitsu (brown syrup) or kinako (soy flour). Besides, kuzu-mochi in Okinawa is also made from sweet potato starch called imo-kuzu instead of arrowroot starch. In this article, I will focus on kusu-mochi from the Kanto region and unravel its history.

A wagashi confectioner, Sentaro's kuzumochi (photography by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨)

Before talking about Kanto's kuzu-mochi, let me introduce a little about Kansai's one. Kuzu-mochi (葛餅) from the Kansai region refers to those made by heating and kneading arrowroot powder and sugar, then pouring it into a mold to harden it, or wrapping it in azuki bean paste like kuzu-manju. Its translucent appearance gives it a refreshing feel, making it one of popular summer sweets. On the other hand, in the Kanto region, kusu-mochi (久寿餅) is a confectionery made from fermented wheat starch, steamed, and cut into triangles. The color is milky white and the taste is slightly sour.

The origin of kusu-mochi dates back to around 1830. There lived a man named Kyubei (久兵衛) around that time. On a windy and rainy night, the flour he had stored in his barn got wet, so he kneaded it, displaced it to a barrel, dissolved it in water, and left it there. When the next year's famine occurred, he remembered this and found that the flour had fermented and that pure starch had settled at the bottom of the barrel. It smelled so bad, he washed the starch for several days to get rid of the smell, and although it still smelled a bit, he steamed the starch because he was really hungry. As a result, a unique rice cake was created, and it is allegedly the origin of the Edo's kusu-mochi. He distributed this to the hungry villagers and became a hero who saved them from famine. Therefore, one kanji character was taken from each of the characters ‘ku (久)’ for the hero Kyubei, ‘mochi (餅)’ that saved people from starvation, and ‘kotobuki (寿)’ that symbolizes a prayer for a long and disease-free life, and this mochi came to be called kusu-mochi.

A wagashi confectioner, Funabashiya's kuzumochi (photography via Funabashiya)

Besides, there is another theory that the name kusu-mochi comes from the word ‘kuzu (葛)’ in Katsushika (葛飾) which includes the eastern part of Tokyo's current wards, and was given the character ‘久寿’ to distinguish it from the kuzu-mochi of Kansai.

Kusu-mochi of the Kanto region is made by fermenting starch refined from wheat flour with lactic acid bacteria, and does not contain arrowroot starch as an ingredient. It looks white and does not have the transparency of kuzu-mochi. The texture is also solider than Kansai's one and has a unique flavor. However, it is eaten the same way as kuzu-mochi of Kansai, served with kuromitsu (黒蜜) or kinako (きな粉). Also, new flavorings like ramune (soda pop) flavor, and new sweets such as cutting kusu-mochi into small dice and making tapioca-style drinks are being devised and commercialized.

This article was written by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨, working as a freelance translator and press for overseas apparel brands in Japan, with the purpose of broadening her insight into the Japanese traditional culture.