Dig Japan vol.1 “Shiruko (しるこ) and Zenzai (善哉)”

Both shiruko and zenzai are wagashi, Japanese traditional sweets, made with azuki beans and mochi, and because of their similar appearance, they are often confused. In fact, the names differ depending on the region, Kanto or Kansai, and this can be explained with shiruko's recipe. In addition to their appearance, are their origins similar?

Shiruko

A wagashi confectioner in Kawasaki, Sumiyoshi's shiruko (Photography by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨)

Shiruko, also known as oshiruko, is made by adding water to anko (azuki bean paste), boiling it, and then adding toasted mochi or candied chestnuts. In the Kanto region, whether anko used is tsubuan (grained one) or koshian (strained one), it is called shiruko, and the one without liquid is called zenzai, while in the Kansai region, the one that uses koshian is called shiruko, and the one that uses tsubuan is called zenzai.

The origin of shiruko can be found in the Edo period, where it appears as “Susuri dango” in the latter section of “Ryori monogatari” published in 1635. This is a type of soup made by simmering dumplings made of 60% glutinous rice and 40% non-glutinous rice in azuki bean powder soup, seasoning with salt and topping with white sugar.

Originally, shiruko was salty, not sweet, and was sometimes used as a side dish. Modern shiruko is sweeter, and there are regional varieties such as Osaka's “Meoto zenzai” and Sendai's “Zunda shiruko.” In Japanese tea rooms in particular, it is often served with salted kelp or pickles to cleanse the palate and bring out the sweetness.

Susuri dango still exists in Oita Prefecture and can refer to dishes such as soup made with corn dumplings and suiton, which is made by boiling dango with vegetables.

Zenzai

A wagashi confectioner based in Izumo, Sakaneya's zenzai (Photography via Sakaneya)

That is the origin of shiruko, so let's move on to zenzai. There are two main theories about its origin. One is that it comes from the Buddhist term “zenzai,” and the other is that it comes from “Jinzai mochi” from the Izumo region of Shimane Prefecture.

The former theory is that it was first eaten by Ikkyu Sojun, who called it zenzai because it was so delicious. Zenzai is a word used by Shakyamuni to praise his disciples, and is the Chinese translation of the Sanskrit word “sadhu,” which means ‘wonderful.’

The latter theory is that jinzai mochi was served at a religious ceremony called the Jinzai Festival, a religious ceremony in the Izumo region, and the pronunciation became corrupted to zenzai. The Matsue Domain's geography book “Unyoushi” (1717) states that zenzai originated in the Izumo region.

Zenzai is a familiar Japanese confectionery that has spread throughout Japan, although there are differences depending on the region. In Japan, we eat zoni on New Year's Day, but zenzai is more common in the Izumo region.

This article was written by 𝐡𝐢𝐫𝐨𝐤𝐨, working as a freelance translator and press for overseas apparel brands in Japan, with the purpose of broadening her insight into the Japanese traditional culture.