Okinawa: Memories of History and "A Bridge between Nations"

2021/12/31

A View of Okinawa from the sky: The Expanding City　

While the airplane descended on its route and made a turn towards Naha Airport, I looked out the window and saw that a large part of the southern area of the island was covered in white buildings, which seemed to be overflowing from land to sea.

After the reversion to Japan in 1972, the population of Okinawa Prefecture increased from about 1 million to 1.467 million in 2020. According to the national census, the population increased by 34,000 compared to five years ago, recording the second highest population growth rate (2.4%) after Tokyo. The prefecture is expected to see a population increase up to 2 million by 2100.

The Okinawan economy has also grown significantly since the reversion, reaching a size of about ¥4.5 trillion, roughly 10 times its previous size by 2019. Attracting 10 million tourists annually from both domestic and international locations, the tourism industry has generated revenue exceeding ¥700 billion.

In the vicinity of Nago City, located in central Okinawa Island, several five-star hotels such as Halekulani and The Ritz-Carlton have opened up. Additionally, the Okinawa Institute of Science and Technology Graduate University (OIST) was established ten years ago, attracting top-level researchers from all over the world.

It is well-known that there is a steady stream of migrants from various parts of Japan to dynamic Okinawa.

If a circle is drawn with a radius of 4 hours' travel time by plane centered on Okinawa, it covers an economic sphere of approximately 2 billion people, including the Japanese archipelago, China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. The economic sector in Okinawa is considering taking advantage of its geographical location for the development of trade, logistics, and tourism industries.

After leaving Naha Airport, I took the monorail that connects to the city center and headed to the Kencho-mae Station, which is close to my hotel. The view from the monorail seats was high up, and I was a bit surprised by the large buildings that spread out in my peripheral vision. It made me realize that Naha City is not just a subtropical tourist city, but also a commercial city with a population of 320,000 people. Many branch offices of major companies from mainland Japan, as well as restaurants and retail stores, have also expanded into the city.

The novelist Tatsuhiro Ohshiro

My first visit to Okinawa was in 1978 when I was a student, just after the roads in Okinawa had switched from driving on the right to driving on the left. I visited Kudaka Island, which is close to the southern part of Okinawa Island, and by chance, I stayed at a small guesthouse with Tatsuhiro Oshiro, who I later found out was a Akutagawa Prize-winning author living in Okinawa. When I mentioned that I had come to Okinawa to study from Tokyo, he narrowed his eyes and was delighted to hear it. At the time, I didn't know who he was, but I later saw his face prominently featured in literary magazine advertisements in the newspaper and was surprised to realize that he was the person I had met.

Afterwards, I became interested in reading Mr. Oshiro's works. His 1967 Akutagawa Prize-winning novel, "Cocktail Party," depicted the reality of Okinawa under US occupation through conversations between Japanese, American, and Chinese people at a party. Despite his gentle demeanor, it was impressive to see that his novels sharply portrayed the absurdities of Okinawa. I felt a sense of obligation from his works to convey Okinawa's history and culture. Since then, Mr. Oshiro had always been an author that I was curious about, but I learned through the news last October that he had passed away at the age of 95.

I looked into whether there was a memorial museum for Tatsuhiro Oshiro and found out there isn't one. Instead, I discovered that his original manuscripts and other materials are preserved at the "Tatsuhiro Oshiro Library" in the Okinawa Prefectural Library. Additionally, I found out that an exhibit showcasing a novel by a writer who focuses on Okinawa's Brazilian immigrants, called "Noroeste Tetsudo," is currently being held at the same library.

Relying on that information, I visited the prefectural library, which had recently moved to a new location. By the way, the architecture, interior design, furniture, and layout of the library were all wonderful, and the environment was so enviable. I was able to slowly follow the exhibition of immigrants and the achievements of the writer inside the library.

The exhibition was held in conjunction with "World Uchinanchu Day" (October 30), which connects approximately 420,000 overseas Okinawans living abroad. Immigration started in Okinawa from 1900 with the first wave of immigrants going to Hawaii, and by 1938, about 12% of the population, or about 70,000 people, had emigrated to countries such as the United States, Canada, Brazil, Argentina, Peru, and Mexico. The exhibition corner of the library included explanations on panels that attracted visitors' attention. Visitors could also view a timeline introducing the life of Tatsuhiro Oshiro and many publications including his complete works.

Beyond the Rails

Tatsuhiro Oshiro was born in 1925. Even in his later years, he never lost his strong creative drive and published a collection of short stories called "Beyond the Rails" at the age of 90, receiving the Kawabata Yasunari Prize.

In this book, there are stories about an elderly couple hospitalized in a city hospital with a monorail extending in the distance and a story set in a new city center. The author wrote about his family in a personal essay style in the "Afterword" of the book, which he found unusual for himself. In addition, the work "Ghost of the Celestial Maiden" in the collection portrays the appearance of a ghost in the redeveloped new city center, with the medium Yuta as the protagonist telling the story to the characters. It is depicted with a sense of reality as if one had heard a ghost story in the city.

The new city senter is located just off the "Omoromachi" station on the monorail, and I learned from the book that it used to be the site of US military housing. There is a huge duty-free shop and shopping mall in front of the station, and if you walk a little further, you can visit the Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum. I later found out that the new city center, where I had visited several times, was the setting for the novel, and I felt the depth of the writer's imagination to create a story that could not be imagined from the modern buildings lining the cityscape.

The author refers to himself as an "Okinawan autobiographical writer." His works cover a wide range of topics and his achievements are significant. He wrote about the war and occupation of Okinawa, the reversion to Japanese control, and the military base issues. At the same time, he depicted Okinawa's history, culture, folklore, and performing arts, and also focused on preserving many valuable resources. Interestingly, Mr. Oshiro also served as the director of the Okinawa Prefectural Museum.

In Okinawa, there is a belief in "Nirai Kanai," a place beyond the sea where the gods live. The island is surrounded by beautiful seas and coral reefs, and the "akabana" (hibiscus) blooms abundantly. Even now, there are people who have the habit of "buying Yuta" (consulting a medium) in their daily lives.

While reading his collection of short stories, I could sense Mr. Oshiro's eagerness to elevate even the most ordinary conversations that the people of Okinawa have in their daily lives into literary works, and his desire to record everything about this era. I caught a glimpse of the reason why he referred to himself as a "Okinawan autobiographical writer".

To the Himeyuri Monument

On the second day of my stay in Okinawa, I took a one-hour bus ride southeast from Naha to visit the Himeyuri Monument.

As soon as I entered the grounds, I saw a large evergreen tree called "Gajumaru," which is believed to be inhabited by spirits, and the surroundings exuded a solemn atmosphere. Adjacent to the monument was the Himeyuri Peace Museum, which had been renovated for the first time in 17 years, and I was able to learn in detail about the tragedy of the Battle of Okinawa.

The "Himeyuri Monument" stands on top of the natural cave called "Gama," where many "Himeyuri students" and army hospital personnel died after being attacked by gas bombs from the US military.

In March 1945, the U.S. military began its landing operation in Okinawa. At that time, 222 students and 18 teachers from the Okinawa Teachers College Women's Division and Okinawa Prefectural First Girls' High School were mobilized to a military hospital to care for wounded soldiers. Of those, 136 students and teachers died on the battlefield. Taking the name "Himeyuri," which was the name of the school alumni magazine, the mobilized students and teachers came to be known as the "Himeyuri Student Corps" after the war. The monument was erected by local people in April 1946.

The Okinawa Teachers College Women's Division and Okinawa Prefectural First Girls' High School, like sister schools, shared a campus of approximately 8,000 tsubo, including a lecture hall, gymnasium, library, farm, alumni hall, dormitories, and at that time, the only swimming pool in Okinawa. Students from both schools, who were selected from all over the prefecture after passing rigorous exams, enjoyed a happy school life in a privileged educational environment, as explained in the museum.

The military hospital where the students were mobilized was a ward with rough bunk beds in a cave on the slope of a hill. The students were forced to work day and night in the midst of the stench of blood, pus, and excrement, with the groans and shouts of wounded soldiers never ceasing. In addition to caring for the wounded soldiers, their tasks included carrying water and food, delivering messages, burying the dead, and other extremely dangerous missions outside the trenches where bullets were flying. The students, who had thought they would be nursing in a hospital protected by the Red Cross flag, found themselves in a battlefield where shells were constantly flying.

As the situation on the battlefield became increasingly unfavorable for the Japanese military, a sudden "disbandment order" was issued for the army hospital, and the students were forced to leave the bunker and act on their own judgment as the US military approached.

The Japanese military commander ordered all surviving soldiers not to surrender and to fight to the end, resulting in many civilians and soldiers who were unable to escape the US military's attacks dying. Some of the students were afraid of being captured by the US military and resorted to using hand grenades to commit suicide.

Between the mobilization in March and the "disbandment order," there were 19 victims among the "Himeyuri Students." However, in just a few days after the order, more than 100 people died.

The natural cave in front of the "Himeyuri Monument" mentioned earlier is called the "Ihara Third Surgical Cave," where about 80 people, including the "Himeyuri Students," army hospital staff, communication soldiers, and civilians, lost their lives.

At the beginning of the exhibit in the museum, there is a group photo of students surrounding their teachers. Their expressions show the radiance of the female students who were in the midst of their youth and were expected to have promising futures. Who could have imagined, as they looked at the camera, that their lives would take a sudden turn for the worse during the war?

In another corner of the museum, there is a video featuring testimonies from classmates of the "Himeyuri Student Corps." At that time, as girls of the imperial nation, they never dreamed that Japan would lose the war. They also talk about how they had no idea what to expect when they arrived at the hospital, which turned out to be like a scene from hell.

The museum was established in 1989 by surviving members of the Himeyuri Student Corps, who have been conveying their experiences through exhibits and testimonies.

The recently renewed exhibits were designed to convey the message to visitors, including staff who may not have experienced war, that the students had happy school lives before being mobilized. This emphasis aims to help visitors understand that the students were just ordinary girls who were thrust into extraordinary circumstances during the war.

In the courtyard of the museum, greenery flourished and beautiful flowers were in full bloom. The building was made to resemble the school as it was in the past, and the beautiful garden in the courtyard is dedicated to the precious lives of the girls who lost their lives on the battlefield. From the garden, one can feel the liveliness of the young female students at that time.

I hope that young people will visit this place and feel the various thoughts and emotions of the "Himeyuri students".

The Peace Memorial Park

After a 15-minute bus ride from the Himeyuri Monument towards the east, there is the Peace Memorial Park. Inside the vast grounds, there is the Okinawa Peace Memorial Museum which I visited. Although it was a short time, I learned about the reality of the Battle of Okinawa from many materials and exhibits here.

Okinawa became the only ground battle site in Japan during the Pacific War, and for 90 days from March 1945, all modern weapons such as artillery bombardment, bombing, and flamethrowers were used in the fierce battle called the "Iron Typhoon." We learned that the Japanese commander did not order a halt to the fighting and committed suicide, resulting in numerous casualties.And then I learned about those who were accused of being spies by the Japanese military and became victims, and how some people chose to kill each other or commit suicide rather than become prisoners of war under the US military. At the time, the Japanese military was trying to ambush the US military in Okinawa and drag out a war of attrition to delay a mainland showdown. That is why such fierce battles were unfolding on the island. In the Okinawa battle, almost all the prefecture's citizens were mobilized, and about a quarter of the island's population, approximately 120,000 people, were said to have died, with a total of around 200,000 casualties including soldiers.

The museum also had many exhibits about the 27-year US occupation of Okinawa that followed the war. Amidst the harsh international confrontation of the Cold War between the US and the Soviet Union, Okinawa played a military base role and endured a long period of occupation. In 1972, Okinawa was returned to Japan, but the situation remained the same with Okinawa accounting for 70% of all US military bases in Japan.

I think it would be great if many students and pupils visited the museum, especially as part of their school trips. It is an ideal place for peace education.

In the park, there is the "Cornerstone of Peace," a memorial that lists the names of the victims of the Battle of Okinawa, and from there, you can overlook the sea. It is quite difficult to imagine the sight of American warships swarming in from beyond the beautiful sea in front of you. I felt that we must make a concerted effort to firmly etch the memory of history.

To Shuri Castle

On the last day of my stay in Okinawa, I visited Shuri Castle. It happened to be the second anniversary of the fire damage to the main hall and other buildings as I visited the castle, which is currently under reconstruction.

When tracing its history, there were three major powerful clans in Okinawa's main island - Nanzan, Chuzan, and Hokuzan. Among them, Nanzan's Shō Hashi unified Okinawa in 1429, and since then, the Ryukyu Kingdom, centered around the Shō family, lasted for 450 years until 1879. Shuri Castle was the royal palace and flourished as the political, economic, and cultural center of the kingdom.

I walked around the curved castle walls behind Shuri Castle and climbed the path that leads to the main hall, where I was able to see the neatly stacked stone walls and appreciate the high level of castle-building technology.

In 1458, the sixth king, Sho Taikyu, cast the "Bridge of Nations Bell" and installed it in the main hall. The surface of the bell bears inscriptions depicting the state of Ryukyu at the time. It seems that it records how the Ryukyu Kingdom prospered through diplomatic and trade relations with countries such as China, Japan, Korea, and Southeast Asian countries, serving as a bridge connecting the nations of the world.

However, in 1609, Ryukyu was invaded by the Shimazu clan of Satsuma, who sought to monopolize the kingdom's trading rights, and Ryukyu lost its independence. In the early modern period, the Ryukyu Kingdom, while indirectly controlled by Satsuma, maintained its appearance as a nation by sending envoys to Edo and maintaining a tributary relationship with China, and was able to maintain its unique culture.

After the Meiji Restoration and the abolishment of the feudal domains, the "Ryukyu Disposition" was carried out, leading to the abdication of King Sho Tai in 1879. Okinawa was then forced to conform to the assimilation policies imposed by the Meiji government, including the suppression of dialects, and was gradually incorporated into the modern Japanese nation.

Since the Meiji era, Shuri Castle had fallen into disrepair, and the buildings were destroyed during the war. It was not until after the war that it was rebuilt. However, two years ago, the main hall of the castle, along with other buildings, was destroyed in a fire, causing great emotional pain to the people of Okinawa.

On the day of my visit, there was an event held to promote the restoration of the castle. I hope that Shuri Castle will be rebuilt quickly and restored to its former glory.

The 50th Anniversary of the Reversion of Okinawa to Japan

Well, in the 50 years since Okinawa's reversion to Japan, what has changed?

After the end of the American occupation, the Japanese government continued to impose a burden of military bases on Okinawa, and the situation portrayed by Tatsuhiro Oshiro in his novel "Cocktail Party" has not changed much. The novel depicts a story in which the daughter of the Okinawan protagonist is sexually assaulted by a U.S. serviceman, and in 1995, an actual case of sexual assault occurred in Okinawa, becoming a major international issue. In the novel, the protagonist's daughter is associated with the image of Okinawa and her struggle against the injustice of the occupation becomes a symbol of hope for the future. Unfortunately, the situation in Okinawa has not changed much since then. In later years, Tatsuhiro Oshiro publicly opposed the relocation of the Futenma base to Henoko, stating that it was a "second Ryukyu disposal".

"Bankoku Shinryo"  A Bridge between nations

During the time of the Ryukyu Kingdom, Okinawa became a maritime trading nation and sought to deepen friendship with all countries to become a bridge between regions.

Today, the business community in Okinawa shows determination to become a modern-day "Bankoku Shinryo" and envision the economic development ranking next to Hong Kong and Singapore in Asia.

We hope that Okinawa will prosper as a shining bridge in Asia in the future.

P.S.
In this article, I have completed my essays on my travels to the 8 prefectures of Kyushu and Okinawa since April 2021. Through these travels, I have come to realize that Kyushu is a treasure trove of historical and cultural heritage, which has been the most rewarding aspect of this journey for me. For those who are interested, I hope you will take a look at the various topics I have covered in each prefecture so far. I plan to continue writing about Kyushu from different perspectives in the future.