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北野天満宮:2024年9月5日(木)

京都市上京区馬喰町に北野天満宮がある。北野天満宮(947(天暦元)年創建)は,菅原道真公(菅公,845年-903年)を御祭神としてお祀りする全国約1万2,000社の天満宮・天神社の総本社である。京都市には,このほかに実在した個人を御祭神とする神社として,清明神社(安倍晴明)や豊国神社(豊臣秀吉)などがある。

 北野天満宮のWebページでは,菅公について以下のように記している。
「‥‥幼少の頃より学業に励み,情緒豊かな和歌を詠み,格調高い漢詩を作られるなど,優れた才能の持ち主でした。学者出身の政治家として卓越した手腕を発揮され,異例の出世を重ねられた菅公は,昌泰2年(899)右大臣の要職に任命され,左大臣藤原時平と並んで国家の政務を統括されます。ところが,突如藤原氏の策謀により,昌泰4年(901)大宰権帥(だざいのごんのそち)という役職を命じられ,九州に左遷されます。そして,そのわずか2年後,大宰府の配所にて悲しみの内に波乱の生涯を閉じられました。菅公の逝去後,その清らかで誠実な人柄と晩年の不遇は,さまざまな伝説を生み,やがては「天神さま」と崇められ,現代に受け継がれる盛んな信仰へと展開します。‥‥」

『拾遺和歌集』に菅公の次の和歌がある。
東風吹かば にほひおこせよ 梅の花 主なしとて 春を忘るな(春なわすれそ)

 この和歌にあやかって「飛梅」のある地が日本各所にある。私が現在住んでいる京都市下京区油小路通高辻の近くに,菅大臣神社(京都市下京区仏光寺通新町)があり,飛梅が毎年綺麗に咲いている(下の写真参照)。この地に菅原道真公の邸宅や,菅家廊下といわれた学問所の跡があり,菅公誕生の地だとも伝えられている。

 昨日9月4日に,北野天満宮で,天満宮の神職が比叡山延暦寺の僧侶とともに,疫病退散や震災復興を願う北野御霊会(神仏習合儀式)が行われた。北野御霊会は987(永延元)年に始まり,応仁の乱(1467年)以降,中止になっていたが,4年前の2020年に再開されている。

菅大臣神社の境内にある飛梅(京都市下京区仏光寺通新町,筆者撮影2024.9.3)
菅大臣神社の境内にある扁額(へんがく,京都市下京区仏光寺通新町,筆者撮影2024.9.3)

Kitano Tenmangu Shrine: Thursday, September 5, 2024

In Bakuro-cho, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto City, lies Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, founded in 947(the first year of the Tenryaku era), is the head shrine of approximately 12,000 Tenmangu and Tenjin shrines across Japan, dedicated to the deity Sugawara no Michizane (Kankō, 845-903). In addition to this shrine, Kyoto City is home to other shrines dedicated to historical figures, such as Seimei Shrine (dedicated to Abe no Seimei) and Hokoku Shrine (dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi).

On Kitano Tenmangu Shrine’s website, Sugawara no Michizane (Kankō) is described as follows: "From a young age, he was devoted to his studies, composing emotionally rich waka (Japanese poems) and writing elegant Chinese poetry, demonstrating his exceptional talents. As a scholar-turned-politician, Sugawara no Michizane-ko displayed outstanding leadership and achieved a series of extraordinary promotions. In 899, during the Shōtai era, he was appointed to the important position of Minister of the Right, overseeing the affairs of the state alongside the Minister of the Left, Fujiwara no Tokihira. However, due to the scheming of the Fujiwara clan, he was suddenly demoted to the post of Dazai Gon no Sochi (Assistant Governor-General of Dazaifu) in Kyushu in the fourth year of the Shōtai era (901), where he was exiled. Just two years later, he passed away in sorrow at the Dazaifu government office, ending a tumultuous life. After his death, his pure and sincere character, coupled with the misfortunes of his later years, gave rise to various legends, and he eventually came to be revered as 'Tenjin-sama,' leading to the thriving faith that continues to this day."

The following waka poem by Sugawara no Michizane is found in the "Shūi Wakashū (Collection of Gleanings of Japanese Poems) :
"When the east wind blows, let it send your fragrance, plum blossoms. Do not forget the spring, even though your master is gone."

Taking inspiration from this waka (Japanese poem), there are various places across Japan that have 'Tobiume' (flying plum trees). Near where I currently live, close to Aburanokōji Street and Takatsuji in Shimogyō Ward, Kyoto City, there is the Kandaijin Shrine (Bukkojidori Shinmachi, Shimogyō Ward, Kyoto City), where Tobiume bloom beautifully every year(see the photo below). It is said that this area was once the residence of Sugawara no Michizane, and the remains of an academic hall called 'Kanke Rōka' are found here. It is also believed to be the birthplace of Sugawara no Michizane.

 Yesterday, on September 4th, at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, a Shinto priest from the shrine, together with monks from Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hiei, performed the Kitano Goryō-e (a syncretic Shinto-Buddhist ritual) to pray for the eradication of epidemics and the recovery from earthquakes. The Kitano Goryō-e began in 987 (the first year of the Eien era), but it was discontinued after the Ōnin War(1467) and was revived four years ago in 2020.