SHIMBASHI PLAT NEWS（Fugu Kappo Masao）
Shopping streets coexist with office buildings in Tokyo's vibrant Shimbashi area, also known as the birthplace of the Japanese railway. We introduce Shimbashi's attractive shops and sites in cooperation with local shop owners.
Traditional restaurant passes down long-standing fugu cuisine in ever-changing Shimbashi
Lanterns hung under the street lights illuminate Shimbashi's Yanagi-dori Street. Fugu Kappo Masao is located on the street, a few minutes' walk from the Karasumori Exit of Shimbashi Station. Many autographs of popular baseball players and famous manga artists are displayed inside the well-maintained but retro-flavored kappo (bar-style Japanese restaurant). Since its opening in 1972 in the vibrant business district, Masao has welcomed customers with its wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.
We interviewed Kotaro Adachi, the owner of Masao. He is a licensed and experienced fugu (pufferfish) processing specialist and holds prestigious titles such as director of Shofukai, an association of royal warrant chefs, and auditor of the Tokyo Minato Fugu Cuisine Association. However, it is his friendliness and gentleness toward everyone that creates the homey atmosphere of the kappo.
I stay connected with both old and new customers
Kotaro's father, Masao Adachi, was the head chef of a ryotei (fancy Japanese restaurant with private rooms) in front of Ginza's Kabuki-za Theater. In 1972, Masao left the ryotei to open his own kappo in Shimbashi. Kotaro, who later inherited the shop from his father, had helped his father since childhood. Young Kotaro used to deliver lunch boxes to nearby construction sites and publishing firms. He told us nostalgically, "Back then, there were many fugu restaurants in Shimbashi because the Tsukiji Fish Market was just around the corner. There was also no internet, so many customers came by word of mouth or were taken by their managers."
Since its opening in 1972, Masao has made a name for itself with its year-round fugu cuisine. The kappo purchases tora fugu (tiger pufferfish) "Roppuku" from Kumamoto. This domestic fugu is said to contain more umami (delicious taste) than the common natural fugu. The most popular and reasonably priced 7,980 yen course comes with fugu sashimi (sliced raw fugu), appetizers, karaage (fried fugu), fugu chiri (hot pot with sliced fugu), zosui (rice porridge), pickles, and dessert. The unaltered taste of Masao's cuisine for over half a century has attracted many regular customers. In addition to fugu cuisine, Masao is also popular for its a la carte dishes such as ei hire (grilled ray fins) and grilled eggplant, as well as hamo (conger pike) and suppon (Chinese soft-shell turtle) cuisines. In 2022, to celebrate its 50th anniversary, Masao resumed offering some summer-only lunch sets. The wallet-friendly but luxurious lunch sets can be selected from sabamisoni gozen (miso stew of mackerel), for which Kotaro has inherited the recipe from his father, fugu gozen (fugu cuisine set), and tai meshi gozen (sea bream cuisine set).
The more I walk around Shimbashi, the more likely I will find something new
Shimbashi is drawing attention as an area where redevelopment plans are underway. When asked what made Shimbashi so attractive, Kotaro shared an episode about his customer. One day, the customer got lost in this area on way to Masao. Then the customer said, "I found that the Shimbashi area is a mixture of many old and new shops. That makes Shimbashi more attractive." Kotaro also envisioned the future of Shimbashi, saying with a smile, "I'm not against the ongoing redevelopment plans. I just hope that the atmosphere of the old-time Shimbashi will be preserved. I'd be happy if the new buildings retained Shimbashi's uniqueness on the inside. The shops around Masao have also changed over time. Kotaro explained that Tokuma Shoten Publishing, one of Japan's major publishers, once had its office building near his kappo. Now, there is a convenience store Lawson.
Umpiring allows me to watch baseball from a VIP seat
At the kappo, Kotaro serves as a top-class fugu chef. At home, he is a father of three. On weekends, he plays baseball with them. He is also a level 3 amateur baseball umpire who often officiates at games of elementary and middle school children and a qualified baseball coach by the Japan Sport Association. He enjoys umpiring because, as he half-jokingly says, "Umpiring allows me to watch baseball up close from a VIP seat." A working father and baseball umpire, Kotaro is a very positive person and an avid baseball fan. His personality has attracted many baseball celebrities to his kappo.
The owner's heartwarming hospitality has attracted many customers to the traditional kappo. When you visit Masao, you will be able to enjoy an amusing conversation and delicious cuisine, and feel the history of Shimbashi.
【info】
Fugu Kappo Masao
3-16-16 Shimbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
03-3433-2662 or 050-5493-3519
Dinner (Mon.-Fri.): 17:00-22:30 (last call: 21:30)
Lunch (Tue.-Fri. April-September): 11:30-14:00 (last call: 13:30)
※ Only 1st-floor seats are available during lunch.
Shop holiday: Sat., Sun., national holidays and summer holiday
※ Open Saturdays in December and January
In charge of this illustration and logo design
Fumika Suzuki(Nihon University College of Art,Department of Design,Mitsuhiro Ikeda Laboratory)