Language on the streets - the dawn of skateboarding 3 The memory of the body and the memory of the mind

Surfers are sensitive to the sensations in the soles of their feet. In order to control the surfboard in the ever-changing and unstable waves, you have to respond to the wave movements transmitted through the surfboard. If the inclination of the surfboard to the slope of the wave (stepping on the front foot) is too lenient, you will not be able to ride the wave, and if you step on the wave too much, you will sink. When turning, the direction of travel is determined by weight transfer just like a bicycle, but if the direction of travel of the surfboard and the direction of travel controlled by the load from the toe to the heel are not aligned, the rider will not be able to ride on the board and will fall off.

It will take time to be able to do these things. If you just ride the wave, there are people who can do it in a day, but that doesn't mean you can control it as much as you want. It takes a lot of practice to get to that point. By riding the waves over and over again, the body remembers the appropriate movements, and that memory, which has become familiar to the body, is called a habit.

Habitual body memory makes it possible to control the surfboard even in an unconscious state without thinking about things like stepping more because you don't step enough, or opening your shoulders because you want to turn to the back side.

These bodily memories are very useful on a sea without the same waves as the two. The body's memory of a habit is the cornerstone of the body's semi-automatic posturing of suitable behavior without finding or thinking about similar situations in relation to the current perception. You don't have to memorize every wave from the beginning, and you can apply it to the same kind of wave.

There is a memory of the body, which is called such a habit, and another memory, that of the mind.

A mental memory is a memory of a specific event, such as what happened on the nth month n day or what wave you rode on.

The mental memory of this particular event allows us to avoid danger, but it is only by noticing the "difference" that we can do so. When they notice a difference, they try to take action on that difference. In other words, perception.

[Create a new readiness for action within the body].

(Quoted in Henri Bergson, Substance and Memory, p. 95)

My first day of skateboarding. Everyone remembers their first experience well. I am moved by the strange experience of moving sideways.

Day Two. I'm gradually getting used to the special moves with the lingering effects of the previous day.

Day Three. I just glide. The excitement of the first time fades a little, and with it, the body gradually gets used to the sideways movements.

Day Four. You will improve further based on your past movements and experiences.

Why do I get better and better with each passing day? This is because you have to remember the past memories and reflect on what was good and what was not good, relying on your mental memory and repeating the correct actions. If you keep doing the same thing, you'll never be able to do it. In order to be able to do something while you can't do it, you have to look for the point where you can do it from the point where you can't do it. By looking for that one point, you will eventually be able to slide, and by repeating the successful experience, it will become a memory in your body called a habit.

At the same time, it doesn't cherish the unimportant and unimportant memories that are in the process of being able to do so gradually on the first few days, but rather works to create something useful by comparing what is currently perceived with the important memories. The work is to look for the "point of being able to do" mentioned above, the point at which we will create something different and useful.

The mind's memory works by remembering specific memories to make us aware of "differences", whether there is any difference in our present perception from the past.

The surfer on the skateboard skated down the street. The place slid through a lot of driveways, sidewalks, and parking lots. Even though surfing and skateboarding are similar, you can't skate well from the moment you get on the board, but you'll be able to skate faster than a person who has never surfed before. A surfer rides a skateboard, riding sideways on a long, narrow board in the same way as surfing, noticing that the motion is the same as surfing, and the weight transfer is the same as turning.

What they have in common is the use of their bodies to control the direction of their progress by stepping on the ground and shifting their weight. The physical memory of surfing allows us to recognize the similarities to skateboarding and make effective body movements semi-automatically, while the mental memory allows us to notice the differences between the two and make faster progress.

The memory of surfing habits on the surfer's body led him to find an identification with skateboarding and reaction. Eventually, the body memory of skateboarding became a habit for surfers.

In doing so, I noticed that there was also a "difference" in the "topography" corresponding to the wave, which is the source of the perception of the soles of the feet.

The topography that gave the impression of "difference" was the "bank".

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