Turning the clock hands of the Japanese archipelago to the position of Kyushu.

2021/04/19

I have relocated to Fukuoka and started to study about Kyushu, which is my hometown, as a beginner.

The other day, I visited the Fukuoka City Museum to catch a glimpse of the famous golden seal. I had heard a story from a friend who went all the way from Kobe just because their middle school daughter wanted to see it.

When I visited the museum, I was surprised to see four huge bronze statues standing at the entrance. I couldn't guess the name of the sculptor even after looking at the nameplate, which read Antoine Bourdelle (1861-1929), a French sculptor who was about 20 years younger than Rodin and known for his "Hercules Archer." It finally dawned on me when I saw the titles of the four magnificent statues: "Eloquence," "Strength," "Victory," and "Freedom." I couldn't help but wonder if the passionate Frenchman and the men of Hakata Gion Yamakasa, whom I have never seen before, with their lively spirits, would get along well.

Now, let's talk about the gold seal. It is said to be a seal given by the Han Emperor with the inscription "King of Na of Wo" (Kan no wa no na no koku o) that we learned about in textbooks. The first impression is that it is cute and small. According to records, a purple string was tied to the handle of the seal, which was shaped like a snake. The Han Emperor applied the seal system even to non-Chinese people and tried to incorporate them into an international order with himself at the top. There are various theories regarding the gold seal, and the interest of ancient historians and history enthusiasts is still high when it comes to considering the formation of ancient Japanese states and international relations with China at the time.

The museum displays the history of Fukuoka from the Paleolithic era, and the guide's explanations are prepared in English, Korean, and Chinese. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the museum had over 10,000 foreign visitors per year. Although some historical descriptions may seem like lip service, the exhibits are well-balanced. As a child, I had no interest in local geography or history, and even as an adult, I was not particularly interested in museums. However, I gradually realized that I was seriously tracing my roots back to the continent.

Recently, I learned for the first time that there was an ancient country called Ito in the Itoshima Peninsula, which is next to Fukuoka City where agricultural products have become brands. From the 7th to the 11th century, there was a Koro-kan, a guesthouse for trade, diplomacy, and cultural exchange with the continent, in Hakata, similar to Nagasaki's Dejima. By the time I moved from the exhibition hall to the modern corner, I must confess that I was completely full of new knowledge.

What caught my eye at the museum was not only the content of the permanent exhibition, but also the video of a map of Japan and East Asia that rotated in the same direction as the clock at the entrance of the exhibition room. The map covers a radius of 2,000 kilometers around Fukuoka, including the Japanese archipelago, mainland China, the Korean Peninsula, the Russian Far East, Taiwan, and the Philippines. The center of the dial is Fukuoka, and the Japanese archipelago rotates 360 degrees like the hour hand of a clock, and I was completely captivated watching it.

I once saw an upside-down map with the Chinese mainland at the bottom and the Pacific Ocean at the top. From China's perspective, it seemed that the Japanese archipelago, Okinawa, Taiwan, and the Philippines were blocking their access to the Pacific, and the arc now called the "First Island Chain" must feel frustrating for China as well. It was an experience that made me realize how a different perspective can change the way we see things.

That's an interesting observation. It reminds me of a program I happened to see on NHK called "Professional," where the animator Hideaki Anno emphasized the importance of perspective and angle in filming on set. It's fascinating how changing one's perspective can alter one's perception of things.

Returning to the rotating map, if we rotate the Japanese archipelago around Fukuoka in a clockwise direction and align the northernmost point of Hokkaido with the 3 o'clock position, it becomes clear that northern Kyushu has been Japan's main gateway from ancient times.

The current era seems to be facing a major turning point. With the rise of China, the confrontation between the US and China has intensified, and East Asian countries are facing significant challenges. In the context of international relations in East Asia, the position of Kyushu, located at the tip of the Japanese archipelago, is crucial. We need to continue learning and consider how we can envision peace and prosperity in this region from this position.