7. Kumano Shrine

On the weekend of September, when she and Miyamoto had their last walk in Rikugien Garden, Natsuko woke up early, even though it was a day off. On normal days off, she usually slept until around noon, but today she set multiple alarms and woke up at 8am. She opened the curtains and leaned against the window, where she could see the long, blue sky framed by the highway next to her apartment and the neighboring apartments. Natsuko quickly took a shower, put on her haori pants, changed into a hanten coat, and put on tabi socks. She then put her wallet and cell phone in a small navy blue pouch embroidered with white hemp leaf patterns, and slung it diagonally from her shoulder.

The sound of Natsuko's zori sandals echoed on the road, which was in the shade all day, next to the highway in front of the apartment. She saw someone wearing the same hanten waiting for the light at a distant intersection. Natsuko started walking faster.
"Gen-san, good morning."
"Nacchan, good morning."
"Thank you for joining us today. I've never participated in the Kumano Shrine festival before. This is my first time."
"It's okay. We're carrying the mikoshi of the Nishi-Shinjuku neighborhood association, and Tsukagoshi-san is with us, so it's okay."
Tsukagoshi was a middle-aged man with tanned skin and glasses whom I met at the Sanja Matsuri. Tsukagoshi grabbed Natsuko's arm, who was confused at the Sanja Matsuri and couldn't get into the large mikoshi, and slid her under it. Natsuko was surprised at first because she didn't often have strangers grab her arm, but after spending the whole day at the festival, she realized that's just how festivals are. You're not taught how to carry it, the rules, or the manners in advance. The message of the people at the festival was, "Just give it a try, and figure it out as you go." Everyone welcomed her warmly, even if they didn't know who she was or where she was from. The bigger the mikoshi, the more difficult it is for locals to carry it all by themselves. Gratitude to the people who came to support them, and the thoughtfulness to make sure everyone enjoyed themselves even in an unfamiliar place, were the underlying words of the people there. Various "thank yous" were flying around. As I watched the people rejoicing with the joy of being able to hold the festival, I felt like I could see the gods smiling and praying for good fortune to fall on the land.
"Kumano Shrine is Tsukagoshi-san's home, isn't it?"
Tsukagoshi-san was the person who loved festivals the most out of all the people Natsuko had met. When I asked him, he told me that he participates in mikoshi festivals in various places every weekend from early summer to autumn. Apparently he sometimes goes to two festivals on the same day.
"That's right, Tsukagoshi-san's hometown. It must be lively."
Tsukagoshi-san has participated in many festivals. That means I can imagine that many people who have come to help out are also coming from all over the country.
"It's fun."
I pictured Tsukagoshi-san smiling modestly as he watched the people, all wearing the atmosphere of various festivals, harmonizing together in harmony.
"Natsuko! You woke up early! Didn't you work until the morning today?"
I heard the cheerful female voice I loved from behind me.
"Good morning, Yuki. Yes. I rested last night so I could enjoy the festival."
"Actually, I was thinking of going to a Kabuki performance, but you wanted to go to the Kumano Shrine festival, so I'm going to be exhausted."
Natsuko couldn't help but smile at this gentle insult.
"Thank you. I guess it can't be helped. Yuki is your guardian, so do your best. But don't worry. Even if you get sleepy after drinking, I'll carry you back from Nakano to Nihonbashi."
About 20 people wearing the same hanten got on the subway and headed for Nakano-sakaue.
When we got off the subway and came above ground, people wearing various hanten were walking.
We walked down a narrow alleyway, following a slightly meandering road.
At one point, straw ropes were suddenly tied on both sides of the alleyway. As I followed the decorations, I saw a mikoshi placed on a stand further down the road.

The mikoshi is usually disassembled and stored. When the festival approaches, local people work together to assemble it. There is a lot of preparation involved in the festival, such as the straw decorations in the town.

"It's a big, splendid mikoshi."

Natsuko said as she looked at the mikoshi. The glossy black paint and gold decorations were beautiful. The ratio of gold and black was a very nice mikoshi. Looking at the logs being carried by the people, I somehow felt its age. This mikoshi seemed old. What I realized after participating in festivals is that there are actually many things in Japan that people of all ages and positions have come together to protect and treasure. Most of the mikoshi I see are not new. But they are all very beautiful. No matter which mikoshi I look at, I can feel the many people who support it. Every time I participate in a festival, Natsuko felt a very warm feeling.
"That's right. There are a lot of young people wearing hanten coats here, so it must be a safe place."
Yuki thought that there must be a lot of people in this neighborhood who can teach them how to assemble a mikoshi.
"No, it doesn't seem to be the case. There are a lot of things here."
Gen-san said as he took out his cigarettes from the cupboard.
"Really?"
Natsuko wanted to know what the reason was.
"Oh, hello everyone in Nihonbashi. Thank you for coming today. I look forward to working with you."
Tsukagoshi was more enthusiastic than usual. His local festival seemed to be something special.
"Hello Tsukagoshi-san. Thank you so much for all your help with the Sanja Matsuri. I'll be counting on you again today."
Natsuko ran a few steps over.
"Ah, that time. You don't have to worry today. Everyone will let you in even if you don't look like you want to get in (under the mikoshi)."
Tsukagoshi said and laughed.
"That's right. Natsuko, stay in. You've put on weight recently."
Gen-san made a mean face.
"That's right, Natsuko. If you stay inside the mikoshi the whole time, you won't get sunburned. You'd better do your best."
The feminine Yuki said.
"I'm not worried about my weight or sunburn! Besides, I'm a beginner!"
As Natsuko said that she wasn't worried about her weight or sunburn, she remembered that Emma had warned her about the same thing yesterday.
"Beginner? You've already done it a few times, haven't you? You're already an experienced person."
Minamoto lit a cigarette.
"That's right. If there are any first-timers today, please teach them. It's all like that."
Tsukagoshi smiled.
"There's food and drinks prepared over there, so don't be shy. I look forward to today."
After saying this and bowing slightly, Tsukagoshi went off to greet the supporters from another district who were nearby.
Natsuko looked at Tsukagoshi's back and the atmosphere around him.
"Tsukagoshi-san is a fine person, isn't he?" Natsuko murmured.
"That's right. The people supporting it are also great."
Yuki said, straightening the collar of Natsuko's crooked hanten coat.
Looking around, she saw all kinds of people busy. Some were preparing food, some were preparing drinks, some were watching the mikoshi, and middle school-aged children were looking after the little ones.
"That's true."
Natsuko felt happy.
"That's right. Everyone's great."
Yuki smiled too.
"We're great too. And you are too."
Minamoto-san also said.
"Hahaha."
Natsuko laughed.
"Let's do our best today too."
Minamoto-san said.
"Yeah."
Natsuko nodded.
The road to Kumano Shrine was jammed with mikoshi. People wearing all kinds of hanten coats were wriggling around, and the road was crowded with spectators and passersby. The Kumano Shrine festival was lively until late into the night.