Oshima Tsumugi

<This article was originally written by Kaori Nakano in Japanese and published in the July 29 edition of the Nikkei evening column. Here is an extended English version>

Oshima Tsumugi, which originated approximately 1,300 years ago on Amami Oshima Island, is a unique silk fabric known for its rich and subdued colors achieved through mud-dyeing. It stands out in the world of textiles due to its distinctive character.

The traditional production process remains largely unchanged, organized into about 30 to 40 distinct stages, each involving intricate and delicate work requiring skilled craftsmanship. While there are several weaving companies in the region, only a few individuals are involved in creating the raw materials, and the average age of artisans, including them, exceeds 70 years. There is a significant shortage of successors to carry on this craft.

In an effort to foster new artisans and preserve this industry, the Kimono no Mori Foundation and the kimono specialty store "Yamato" collaborated with local authorities to establish the "Amami Oshima Technical School" back in 2018. This initiative has seen some success in training individuals who have an interest in textiles and helping them start their careers as weavers (known as "oriko"). However, the issues of artisan wages and longstanding local traditions still present considerable challenges, which can only be addressed through cooperation between businesses and the local community.

To tackle the social challenges underlying traditional industries, in May of this year, Yamato signed a "Tatsugo Town Social Action Partner Agreement" (T-SAP Agreement) with Tatsugo Town, the central hub for Oshima Tsumugi production. This agreement represents a collaborative effort between the public and private sectors aimed at resolving local social issues. The activities under this agreement include promoting the charm of Oshima Tsumugi, the history and culture of Tatsugo Town, with the aim of increasing profits through such promotional efforts and addressing wage-related issues within the local industry.

This marks the second such agreement for Yamato, following their previous agreement with Shibuya Ward. What kind of impact can such public-private partnerships have?

Yamato's President, Takayuki Yajima, explains, "These agreements allow local governments and the private sector to complement each other. While local authorities can fund artisan training, there are aspects such as effective PR and smart distribution that require the passion of the private sector."

This has a significant impact within the company as well, as Yajima notes, "Collaborating with local governments boosts employee morale. Knowing that you are making a social contribution is a source of joy. Employees are our treasures."

This approach combines the well-being of artisans working in the region with the happiness of those working in urban office buildings, ensuring that Oshima Tsumugi is passed down to future generations.