The Age of Quiet Luxury

<This article was originally published in Japanese, for Nikkei THE STYLE, 3/September/2023>

「静かなぜいたく」が席巻　控えめな上質ファッション - 日本経済新聞

A significant trend has made its long-awaited return - "Quiet Luxury." This trend embraces the essence of understated elegance, eschewing flashy brand logos and ostentatious designs in favor of a more subdued color palette and fundamental pieces that exude a sense of opulence. It embodies a "quiet" style of affluence.

In stark contrast to the quest for "Instagrammable" fashion, the simple and refined world of quiet luxury had already gained attention through the HBO series "Succession," which premiered in 2018. The show, depicting the power struggles among the successors of the Roy family, who run a global media empire, showcased the understated wardrobes of the eldest daughter, with cashmere sweaters and trousers, and the gentlemen's effortless style, eschewing ties to signify their affluence. This subtle elegance hinted at "old money" wealth and influence.

The catalyst for this trend came in March this year when American actress Gwyneth Paltrow, embroiled in a lawsuit following a skiing accident, appeared in court. She donned a soft grey suit, rolled up at the elbows, a white cashmere sweater, and oversized glasses, all basic items that instantly conveyed luxury, and she wore them with a sense of effortlessness as she made her court appearance. Her attire received extensive media coverage along with her testimony, sparking the conversation around "Quiet Luxury." It quickly became the prevailing fashion trend for the 2023 fall-winter season.

Quiet Luxury doesn't strip down to minimalism as much as it refines it. High-quality and high-priced "insider" brands such as Loro Piana, Herno, Brunello Cucinelli, and The Row are now in the spotlight.

This trend is not entirely new, as it has existed since the 20th century under various names such as "Stealth Wealth" or "Discreet Luxury." Brands like Bottega Veneta have long represented this silent elegance by avoiding flashy logos and emphasizing the meticulous craftsmanship of leather. The fashion adage "the best things are noticed the least" and "if you turn heads, you're doing it wrong" has been prevalent for ages. Those who adopt this style have traditionally been financially comfortable individuals who avoid drawing attention to themselves. They maintain a discreet distance from showy behavior and erect a smoke screen around their exclusive world, shielding themselves from public envy.

However, it's precisely because of this that one's status becomes more apparent when it's tied to their behavior. Gwyneth Paltrow's lawyer's claim that "the plaintiff filed the lawsuit for financial compensation" gained credibility due to her impeccable attire and poised demeanor, leading to her legal victory.

The power of such privileged protective attire became evident in the courtroom, extending beyond a minority lifestyle to become the dominant aesthetic of this season. Rather than promoting value through brand logos or surprising collaborations, Quiet Luxury appeals through meticulously crafted silhouettes, premium materials, and a modest, delicate color palette. Max Mara, for instance, named its collection "Camelocracy," hinting at the nuance of a special class that wears understated camel colors.

Viewed as a fashion trend, Quiet Luxury can be likened to a pendulum swing, reflecting a backlash against the ostentatious influencer culture that has flaunted extravagant closets in recent years. Insider information that quietly exudes power now appears more refreshing than the exhausting influencer overload. Nevertheless, on social media, new influencers have emerged, using hashtags such as #stealthluxe and #quietluxury to guide followers on how to attain this look affordably, maintaining a world that remains relatively unchanged.

Whether affordable or expensive, Quiet Luxury attire resonates with the spirit of the times. In an era where sustainability is a priority, many young people wish to be seen as individuals who choose long-lasting clothing. The presence of King Charles, who wears patched clothing for an extended period, significantly contributes to this trend. In a world where many people suffer due to economic hardship, war, riots, or natural disasters, fashion displays that rely on brand logos appear out of touch. In times when fellow citizens are enduring difficulties, sensible individuals do not flaunt their jubilant displays to the outside world. Showing restraint is an act of consideration.

Now, let's consider the parting words Gwyneth, the triumphant "defendant," uttered to the plaintiff as she left the courtroom: "I wish you well." It is this perfect blend of kindness and subtle sarcasm in words that, when delivered quietly, enhances the effectiveness of Quiet Luxury—a mode of behavior that transcends being a fleeting trend for a certain class and is, instead, part of their everyday life.

Photo: Beau Brummell, etching.jpg.  Public Domain