Elevating the Value of Elderly Women with Miyako Jofu
Among the highest quality traditional fabrics in Japan is Miyako Jofu. It has been woven on Miyako Island since the Ryukyu Kingdom era, carrying a tradition spanning several centuries. I visited the workshop of Reiko Shinzato, who is not only the representative of the Important Intangible Cultural Property Miyako Jofu Preservation Group but also one of the weavers. Her workshop is located on part of her residential property. Miyako Jofu is born from the integrated lifestyle of work and home.
The thread used in Miyako Jofu is from ramie, a type of nettle. It is soaked in water to soften, then finely split and spun into yarn. While it requires laborious work, the wages paid are not high. Traditionally, elderly women known as "island grandmothers" take on this task, and I had previously assumed that the lack of younger individuals entering this world was a "challenge to be addressed" for the continuity of traditional techniques.
However, Reiko's story overturned that assumption.
"The appropriate time to start spinning the thread is in one's 60s, and it's only in one's 90s that one finally excels," Reiko explained, showing me several types of threads with varying thicknesses. "The thread spun by someone in their 60s is extremely fine. As you age, you'll notice the thread becoming thicker, right? It's because your sense of touch dulls, and gradually the thread becomes thicker." Far from being a flaw, this thickening of the thread is advantageous. Thick threads are suitable for obis and can even be traded at higher prices. "Starting to learn at the patient age of 60 and excelling at the age of 90 when your senses dull. That's why we say 'hooray for aging,'" Reiko chuckled. "It's only when they reach 90 that women finally say, 'It was good that I spun the thread.'"
It was a revelation. I felt the sanctity of these women, who, having completed their family care duties, had finally found a space to confront themselves. There was a world where aging became hopeful. "There is magic in the thread. The more you weave, the more fascinated you become," Reiko said. I felt the wisdom of the islanders who had drawn out the potential of elderly women, enriched their lives, nurtured communities, and turned aging into the joy of mastery.
However, the issue of distribution remains a "challenge to be addressed," as the thread, produced at low wages, becomes worth millions when it reaches consumers. Reiko has also been experimenting to address this issue. "Maintaining a balance of 70% wholesale and 30% direct sales seems ideal. Handling luxury items can be challenging for consumers, so it's often better to leave it to wholesalers. Producers can't handle consumer care. Making significant profits through direct sales and leaving the difficult aspects to wholesalers is also one approach."
Furthermore, increasing the wages of artisans is not straightforward. "If you raise wages in one place, word spreads, making it difficult for other producers. The world of thread is delicate."
The wisdom of islanders who have valued the aging process of women's handiwork, intertwined with long-standing customs and relationships, and the commercial practices that are not easily changed, form a complex tapestry in human society, subtly woven into the intricate depths of Miyako Jofu. Respecting the integrity of an industry that lies outside the realm of global economic rationality actually sustains the rare and precious value of Miyako Jofu.
＊Original Article in Japanese ↓
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