Interview with Kaori Nakano: Compass for "Japan Luxury" as indicated by the leading expert in luxury studies
(This article was originally published by wwd Japan)
Kaori Nakano, a historian of fashion and author, is a leading authority who has examined the concept of luxury as it has evolved over time from the perspectives of human history and fashion culture. We asked Nakano about her vision for "Japan Luxury."
WWDJAPAN (hereinafter referred to as WWD): The luxury business is thriving worldwide.
Kaori Nakano (hereinafter referred to as Nakano): The luxury business of the past 30 to 40 years, dominated by giant conglomerates, is finally reaching a plateau. The disparities generated by global capitalism are beginning to manifest worldwide. The upcoming Generation Z, which will be the main consumers in the future, find joy in "empathy" and "sharing" rather than the acquisition of wealth or fame. The current luxury, which turns wealth disparity into "aspiration," no longer appears truly affluent. The luxury business is in need of a transformation.
WWD: What is the future direction of "luxury" in this era?
Nakano: It will become more rooted in the local community and more human-centered. A cycle must be created where artisans feel dignity in their work, produce excellent goods, receive appropriate recognition, and are motivated to move on to the next task. For example, "Brunello Cucinelli," a luxury brand from Italy, raised the wages of its artisans to a level 20% higher than the average wage in Italy. Artisans began to take responsibility for their work, resulting in a higher level of creativity. As a company, they were also able to generate greater profits.
There are many artisans in Japan with outstanding craftsmanship. When WEST (President Kyomi Nishimura) heard that a factory in Fukushima's Iwaki City, formerly owned by a major underwear and socks company, was closing down, she took over the equipment and technicians and revived it as her own factory, "Iwaki Socks Lab and Factory." Craftsmen capable of operating machines to knit the finest dress socks are rare and considered something worth preserving. The craftsmen, understanding their own value, moved away from low-wage subcontracting and launched their own brands through crowdfunding as an opportunity to compete. Socks made with the finest materials and crafted with care have garnered fans even at prices exceeding 10,000 yen per pair. It's not hard to imagine how the passion of artisans for their work has transformed.
WWD: Why isn't luxury born from Japan?
Nakano: First, we need to break free from the fixed idea that "luxury equals European luxury brands." Through the fervent brand bag boom, Japanese people have been indoctrinated with a longing for Western luxury brands. Even now, collaborating with brands across the ocean is considered the greatest honor and goal for Japanese brands. Japan has many things to be proud of in terms of craftsmanship that could be showcased globally, so we need to update our submissive thinking.
WWD: Are there any good examples of "things to be proud of in terms of craftsmanship"?
Nakano: In Miyako Island, Okinawa, there is a luxury fabric called "Miyako Jofu" that is traded for millions of yen. The intricate Kasuri patterns and glossy texture are unique because they are hand-spun by elderly island women known as "grandmothers of the island." These island women start spinning yarn in their 60s and only truly master it as artisans in their 90s. As they age and their fingertip sensitivity dulls, the spun yarn becomes slightly "coarser," which ironically fetches higher prices as belts. In their 60s and 70s, they cannot achieve this coarseness. The island women rejoice in aging, jokingly saying they don't want young people to take over their work, and take pride in their craft.
While not many can be produced, inheriting the ideology and techniques of the local area enriches people's lives. This could be one form of the new luxury. Japan has such ideologies and techniques scattered throughout the country, and by picking them up one by one, interesting projects can be created. Japan's aging population is often discussed in a negative context, but it should lead the way in demonstrating a rich way of living and working in the mature society that the world is heading towards.
WWD: What is needed for luxury originating from Japan?
Nakano: To answer that question, we should consider why numerous luxury brands thrive in Europe. One reason is the difference in education. Europe has renowned educational institutions for luxury education, such as Bocconi University in Italy and Goldsmiths, University of London. These institutions not only teach MBA-like business skills but also ensure an understanding of the humanistic aspects such as cultures, customs, and the history of art of various countries, and provide experiences of craftsmanship by visiting production sites. Through this, talents who have systematically learned about luxury business excel globally and return to nurture the next generation.
Each country also has a luxury oversight organization. France has the Colbert Committee, Italy has Altagamma, and the UK has Walpole. Walpole supports its membership companies in exploring markets worldwide and holds awards annually to commend outstanding products and techniques, thereby promoting excellent creations. Covering various genres such as apparel, jewelry, automobiles, wine, hotels, and cruises, they constantly ponder "what British luxury is."
These countries, along with Germany, Spain, Sweden, and Portugal, have organized the European Cultural and Creative Industries Alliance (ECCIA), with more than 600 companies from seven countries as members, establishing a framework to promote and collaborate on luxury businesses.
WWD: We also need to consider breaking the shell from the outside.
Nakano: In May 2023, I was invited to speak at the regular meeting of the Fashion Business Society, composed of players and experts in the fashion industry. As a result of my proposal at that time, the "Luxury Business Subcommittee" was established. It's not yet clear what can be done at this point. However, the emergence of movements to explore the appropriate form of "luxury" for Japan while fostering lively discussions and running projects will undoubtedly be a definite step forward.
☆HISTORY OF LUXURY☆
"Luxury" has always been redefined by the people living in each era. In Europe, for a long time, silk fabrics adorned with jewels and pearls were worn by privileged classes such as royalty and nobility to demonstrate their power and authority. Commoners and those below the middle class were subject to sumptuary laws that prohibited extravagance. As industrialization progressed in the 19th century, some newly wealthy bourgeoisie became purchasers of luxury goods.
The 20th century was a "battle to redefine the meaning of luxury" (Nakano). Figures like Coco Chanel, who separated financial assets from elegance with costume jewelry, as well as Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Giorgio Armani, emerged, shaking and rewriting the values of beauty with their passionate designs. Luxury became the driving force behind creating a new era.
However, over the past 40 years, global capitalism has significantly transformed luxury. It began with Bernard Arnault's acquisition of Boussac, which owned Christian Dior, in 1984, marking the start of a competition among capitalists to acquire designer brands. Luxury business transformed into a global money game dominated by giant conglomerates. Chain stores emerged worldwide, ushering in an era of luxury democratization where anyone could own a luxury brand as long as they had the money.
(Reference: "Decameron about New Luxury")
Photo: Cover of WWD Japan. 15 January 2024
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