The Clothing Reform Proclamation of Charles II and Today’s Gentlemen’s Luxury Business
The Clothing Reform Proclamation issued by Charles II in October 1666 was revolutionary not only because it gave birth to the modern suit system, but also because it fundamentally transformed the meaning of luxury.
Prior to this, the court maintained its authority by reserving conspicuous consumption as an exclusive privilege. During the reign of Elizabeth I, even sumptuary laws were enacted to monopolize luxury by forbidding its display among the middle classes and below. This "tradition" of luxury being confined to the elite persisted for centuries.
However, with the introduction of clothing that "taught nobility thrift," the aristocracy began to seek cultural authority through anti-luxury. This shift was remarkably novel at the time.
Moreover, the Glorious Revolution of 1688 established the first Bill of Rights in England, further encouraging the nobility to distance themselves from excess and move toward modesty.
The Enlightenment further supported this trend by promoting values of democracy and human rights. The English, who had abandoned the ostentatious ornamentation of the old aristocracy, came to associate the plain and simple suit with these emerging political and social ideals.
While France, still clinging to the opulence of the old aristocracy, experienced a bloody revolution, England managed to transition smoothly through the power of its anti-luxury dress code. By the end of the 18th century, England had become the global leader in men’s fashion. The humble frock coat became the dress code of individuals who supported personal freedom and constitutional government.
That said, in France, those who adopted similar values often claimed inspiration not from England, their political rival, but from America. This trend became known as "Franklin-style" fashion, after Benjamin Franklin.
Nonetheless, the origin of this movement can be traced back to Charles II’s Clothing Reform Proclamation, which deserves far more recognition.
Did luxury disappear from England as a result? Quite the opposite. A "new luxury" emerged, one that found extravagance in the refinement of simplicity and restraint. This new approach was embodied by Beau Brummell’s dandyism, marking the birth of the "gentlemanly luxury." Today, many of the leading gentlemen's brands continue to leverage this heritage in their luxury business.
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