Land of Myth, Obi Castle and the Flag of Portsmouth.

2021/08/27

Happiness Rank No.1 Miyazaki

According to the Brand Research Institute's 'Happiness Rank' by prefecture, Miyazaki was ranked first last year and second this year, competing with Okinawa for the top spot in recent years.

The level of happiness is influenced by factors such as a comfortable and warm climate, favorable local customs, and good human relationships. The abundance of greenery and food, as well as having a sense of emotional balance, can also affect the level of happiness.

Moreover, in terms of agricultural output value (2019), Miyazaki ranks fifth nationwide. In terms of output value by municipality, Miyakonojo City in Miyazaki Prefecture ranks first with 87.7 billion yen. In terms of the percentage increase in output value compared to 2014, Hyuga City ranks at the top. This is because Miyazaki's agriculture has shifted early on from rice cultivation to livestock and horticulture.

Miyazaki beef is now registered as a protected regional brand by the government, along with Kobe beef and Matsusaka beef, and the high-end mango brand 'Taiyo no Tamago' is well-known as a popular gift at department stores.

Going back a bit further in time, in the 1960s, the southern coast of Nichinan in Miyazaki was a mecca for domestic honeymoon travel. In sports, Miyazaki is nationally known as the location for the spring training camp of the Yomiuri Giants baseball team and as the venue for the Dunlop Phoenix golf tournament.

During the four years of Governor Higashikokubaru's tenure from 2007, Miyazaki gained attention for various reasons. Some notable figures from Miyazaki include actor Masato Sakai, model Yuri Ebihara, and singer-songwriter Miki Imai.

Miyazaki Prefecture is also facing a wave of population decline. However, the locals have a high sense of well-being and are actively promoting industries that utilize the local advantages, and the power of regional branding is still strong. With an interest in the charm of Miyazaki's local content, I visited the prefecture to discover what kind of attractions it has to offer.

Deeper and deeper Into the blue mountains

Miyazaki Prefecture is located in the southeast of Kyushu. Its coastline facing the Hyuga-nada Sea to the east stretches about 400 kilometers from north to south. This time, I took the JR Nichinan Line express train from Oita to Miyazaki.

As I headed south from Oita Station, the train passed through Usuki and Saiki in the southern part of Oita, weaving its way between the coast and the mountains. This area is where the first Dutch ship is said to have arrived in Japan in 1600, and I found myself leaning out of the window, imagining the coves and small islands where the ship is believed to have run aground. By the way, it's worth noting that William Adams, an English navigator who would later be highly valued by Tokugawa Ieyasu, was on board this ship.

As the train crosses the border between Oita and Miyazaki, it passes through the eastern end of the Kyushu mountain range, which stretches from northeast to southwest through the center of Kyushu. Amidst the deep mountains, valleys peek out and offer enjoyable scenery. Riding the train, one feels as if they are venturing deep into the mountains, reminiscent of the haiku by Santoka Taneda, "Entering deeper and deeper, into the blue mountains." By the way, the luxury cruise train "Seven Stars" by JR Kyushu, popular among the wealthy, is supposed to take the same route.

As the train continues on, the view opens up and a vast ocean comes into sight. Seeing this coastline also brings back memories of when I cycled here as a high school student, and the unchanged natural scenery still brings a sense of calm to my heart.

Southern Station

Well, after a journey of just over three hours from Oita Station, I finally arrived at Miyazaki Station. I was worried about the weather due to the rain the day before, but the sky was clear and blue. The station building was designed in white, and the Phoenix, the prefectural tree, caught my eye in the rotary in front of the station. The tropical air enveloped my skin, and I felt like I had arrived at a resort, so I was feeling optimistic.

This time, fortunately, a friend who was assigned to this area came to pick me up at the station. My high school friend drove his bright red Volvo lightly and picked me up at the station. As soon as we met, he said, "You still haven't lost your belly, have you?" When we last met about 7 years ago, he said, "You still have your hair." So I don't mind his straightforward approach, which is typical of rural areas. First, we checked each other's physical condition and then drove the car.

On this day, my friend attended to me all day, and we talked non-stop, bridging decades-long gaps. The topics had changed quite a bit from our younger days, but it was delightful to have the freedom to speak candidly. At the end of the trip, my friend treated me to local cuisine in Miyazaki, which was very gracious of him.

This article is a report on a short trip from Miyazaki Station to Miyazaki Shrine, then to Udo Shrine, and finally to Obi Castle, all under the guidance of a friend's driving. It was certainly a route that could not have been taken without a car. Although I immediately sent a thank-you gift to my friend after returning to Hakata, I must confess that I was quite late in submitting my homework essay.

The homeland of myths

Last year, the manga "Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba," which has been recording an unprecedented hit, is said to have several shrines in Kyushu as its subject matter, as the author is from Fukuoka. Also, "Ghost of Tsushima," a globally popular game on Sony's PlayStation, tells the story of Tsushima, an island off Kyushu, during the Mongol invasion. In terms of digging up the mythology and history of this region to create content for manga and games, Kyushu may have plenty of materials to work with.

When it comes to Miyazaki, it may also be thought of as "the birthplace of mythology." In Japanese mythology, Takachiho in Miyazaki is said to be the place where the descent of the heavenly grandson took place, and the country of Japan and the imperial family are said to have started in the land of Hyuga. From this land, the first emperor of Japan, Emperor Jimmu, crossed the sea, went through many difficulties, and declared the establishment of a unified government in Yamato in the story of the Emperor Jimmu's Eastern Expedition, which is told in the "Hyuga Myth" of the Kojiki (712). During this short trip, we were only able to visit two shrines, but these myths seem to still be alive in the events of the shrines, regional customs, and festivals throughout Miyazaki.

Why did the distant land of Hyuga, far from the Yamato where the imperial court existed, become the stage for the mythology of the beginning of the country? There are various theories by scholars, but it is speculated that the natural environment of this land and the presence of the people who lived there were probably significant factors. Tetsuo Nagai, a local historian in Miyazaki, states that Miyazaki is a treasure trove of mythology and folklore, with a beautiful landscape that is suitable as a stage to convey them, a gentle flow of time that passes them down, and a strong sentiment and way of life among the people who do not see mythology and folklore as a thing of the past. Indeed, when visiting various places in Miyazaki, one may become interested in the rich world of mythology and feel one's imagination stirred, perhaps due to the natural flow of things.

Miyazaki Shrine

First, let me introduce Miyazaki Shrine, which was the first place we visited.

Miyazaki Shrine enshrines Emperor Jimmu, the first emperor of Japan, as the main deity. The shrine was first established when Jimmu's grandson held a ritual to honor his grandfather's legacy at this location, and subsequent generations built the shrine buildings. Over time, the shrine gained popularity and became widely revered in the region. According to the explanation, Miyazaki Shrine gained prominence during the Meiji Restoration when there was a renewed interest in reaffirming the country's origins as a modern nation centered around the emperor. This led to a resurgence of interest in the shrine.

The gates at the entrance of the shrine grounds feature a large chrysanthemum crest that catches the eye. Emperor Showa visited this shrine several times and the current Emperor Emeritus also visited during his time as Crown Prince. Many members of the imperial family have also visited the shrine, and the solemn atmosphere surrounded by the deep forest can be felt within the grounds.

It is a digression, but there is an old western-style building preserved next to Miyazaki Shrine, which caught my eye because it resembled the Mita Speech Hall at Keio University (built in 1875). It used to be used to display and preserve the treasures and books of Miyazaki Shrine and was built in 1909. Although the age is quite different, they both have "namako walls," so I wanted to mention it as a rare sight.

Udo Shrine - Praying for Safe Delivery

Next, I visited the Udo Shrine, which is known as the setting of the Hyuga myth. Let me introduce you to this shrine.

Udo Shrine is located on a cape along the Nichinan coastline. The enshrined deity is the father of Emperor Jimmu, the legendary first emperor of Japan. According to ancient mythology, a daughter of the sea god who married the mountain god, the grandfather of Emperor Jimmu, gave birth to a child in a cave at this cape. Nowadays, the shrine is known for its blessings of safe childbirth and child rearing, and has become a popular destination. The shrine's main hall is said to have been built during the reign of Emperor Kammu, and has since then been revered as a representative shrine of southern Kyushu, attracting people's faith for centuries.

The most unique feature of this shrine is its main hall located inside a cave, which is mentioned earlier. Additionally, the strange rock formations standing on the coastline are also impressive, said to have been formed approximately 8 million years ago from sediment, mud, and marine organisms. These sights are all worth seeing and are appropriate for a location that serves as the setting for mythological tales.

The view from the top of the cape overlooking the main shrine, the strange rocks, and the Hyuga-nada Sea is also magnificent. Beside the stairs leading up to the main shrine, there is a monument with a poem by Hakushu Kitahara, which reads: "In the sea of Udo, when the evening rainbow shines, it is truly a heavenly floating bridge on which the gods descend." If a rainbow appears right in front of you, it must be an amazing sight, and you can imagine the sight of the gods descending from the bridge beyond the sea.

It was interesting to learn about the history and mythology behind Miyazaki Shrine and Udo Shrines , and the unique features of each location.

Do you know about Obi Castle?

Next, I would like to talk about the history and people of Hyuga, particularly the story surrounding Obi in Nichinan City, which we visited this time. Speaking of Hyuga Province during the Edo period, it refers to the area that is now almost the same as Miyazaki Prefecture. In Hyuga, there were small fiefs such as Nobeoka, Sadohara, Takanabe, and Obi. Among them, Obi was geographically located in the southernmost part and was a fiefdom of 51,000 koku. The lord of the fief was the Ito family, who settled in this area since the Warring States period. By the way, the population of Miyazaki Prefecture is currently slightly over 1 million people.

First, I would like to talk about Obi Castle.
Obi Castle is characterized by its single-story building, without a castle tower. The gates and walls of the castle remain on the site, and the castle's museum displays the artifacts of the lord, allowing visitors to reflect on its former glory. A small castle town spreads out behind the castle, with buildings preserved for visitors to enjoy a stroll around the area. The samurai residences in this area, which is a typhoon route, are prepared for disasters with stone walls and hedges as fences, featuring a unique southern style. As I walked around the area, I got the impression of a friendly castle town. In Kyushu and Okinawa, it was the first "Important Preservation Districts for Groups of Traditional Buildings" designated by the national government in 1977, and its landscape is protected. In 2004, it was also used as a location for NHK's continuous TV drama "Wakaba".

I would also like to touch briefly on the history of the Obi Domain. In the late Edo period, the lord of Obi, like the lords of the Nabeshima and Satsuma domains in Kyushu, established a domain school called Shintokudo (1831) and put a strong emphasis on educating the children of the samurai class. Outstanding students were sent to Nagasaki or Edo to study Western learning. One of them was Jutaro Komura, a diplomat in the Meiji period who will be mentioned later. Furthermore, going back in time, it should be noted that the Ito family, the lords of the domain, were distant relatives of Otomo Sorin, and Ito Mancio, the leader of the four boys sent to Rome in 1582 as part of the Tensho Embassy, came from the Ito family of Obi. They returned home and entertained Toyotomi Hideyoshi with a performance of Western music, leaving behind a legendary story in the history of Obi.

During the end of the Edo period and the Meiji Restoration, the Obi clan, despite being a small domain, was also drawn into the wars. Although they sided with the Imperial forces during the Boshin War, during the Satsuma Rebellion, around a thousand soldiers from the Obi clan fought alongside the Satsuma forces and suffered many casualties. Ogura Shohei, who was an accomplished scholar in Obi and a mentor to Komura Jutaro, also died during this war while serving as a government official. The neighboring Satsuma clan had a strong influence on Obi and its history, constantly affecting its affairs.

Komura Jutaro and the Flag of Portsmouth

Let's move on to the story of Jutaro Komura (1855-1911), a Meiji-era diplomat born in Obi. It may take a little while, but please bear with me. Komura's character is well portrayed in the book "The Flag of Portsmouth" written by novelist Akira Yoshimura. This acclaimed book tells the full story of the peace treaty negotiations between Japan and Russia that followed Japan's victory in the Russo-Japanese War. Based on the contents of this book, I would like to introduce the person that was Jutaro Komura.

Komura was born in 1855 and moved from Obi to Edo (modern-day Tokyo) to attend the school that would later become the University of Tokyo. He went on to study in the United States as a government-sponsored exchange student, graduating from Harvard University. After five years in the US, including working at a law firm in New York, he returned to Japan. For the next ten years, he held various positions in the Ministry of Justice and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, including judge and head of the translation bureau, but he did not stand out particularly.

However, he caught the eye of the Foreign Minister at the time, Munemitsu Mutsu, and went on to become a successful diplomat, serving as envoy to China, Russia, and the United States. He later rose to the position of Foreign Minister and negotiated the Anglo-Japanese Alliance. But Komura is best remembered for his role in negotiating the peace treaty with Russia after the Russo-Japanese War. As the plenipotentiary ambassador, Komura was appointed by Prime Minister Katsura to carry out the task.

Portsmouth is located along the northern coast from Boston, United States. With a population of less than 10,000, it prospered as a port town and a naval shipyard, while during the summer, hotels and villas were bustling as a summer resort. The President of the United States, Theodore Roosevelt, chose this place as the negotiation site and facilitated the stage. The people of Portsmouth were honored to have been chosen as a historic site and welcomed the delegations from both countries who came to negotiate the treaty.

President Roosevelt was considered a friend of Japan and played the role of a dedicated mediator throughout the negotiations from beginning to end. He later received the Nobel Peace Prize for his achievements. It is also worth noting that Kentaro Kaneko, who was Fukuoka Domain-born and Roosevelt's roommate at Harvard University, was personally close to Roosevelt and played a role in conveying important information through unofficial channels.

As a full ambassador, Komura was impressive in his role, demonstrating a sincere negotiating posture, a realistic approach based on national interests, thorough information gathering, and coordination with his home country. At that time, during the era of imperialism, Japan, which confront the Western powers, had the Emperor, the Cabinet, the military, and the intelligence agencies united, engaging in intense discussions and cooperation to secure the country's future. The author of the aforementioned book, Akira Yoshimura, noted that the conclusion of the peace treaty was a watershed moment in Japanese history that connected the Meiji Restoration with the Pacific War.

Amid the prolonged and difficult negotiations with Russia, small concessions on the territorial issue were finally extracted from the Russian side, and Komura was able to lead the conclusion of the treaty. He was a person who could negotiate toughly and firmly without wavering. It was unusual for Komura, who came from a small domain, to be trusted within the government and expected to play a role in diplomacy, while the Satsuma, Choshu, and Tosa clans dominated the center of power. It seems that those around him highly valued his ideology of protecting national interests, his expertise as a diplomat, and his personal integrity.

Small Giant

Near the ruins of the Obi Castle is the "Komura Memorial Museum of International Relations", which I visited this time. When entering the museum, I was surprised by the life-sized panel of Komura in a frock coat. He was small in stature from a young age, but looking at his student photos, he was a handsome young man with the remnants of a beautiful boy. Later, despite becoming a high-ranking government official, he lived a simple life and always wore only a frock coat. I felt a little regret that he didn't pay more attention to his appearance, as it may have left a better impression during social events with foreign media and dignitaries. However, despite being a small man from a small clan, he spoke his mind and boldly carried out his duties as a giant representing Japan. His dignified posture was respected by his foreign negotiating counterparts as well.

After concluding negotiations with Russia, Komura fell ill and devoted himself to recovery before returning home. At the platform of Shinbashi Station where he arrived by train, Prime Minister Katsura and Admiral Yamamoto greeted him amidst tight security. At that time, a large anti-treaty protest had erupted domestically and Komura's safety was also at risk. Following this incident, the cabinet resigned. Regardless of public opinion, Komura's achievement in bringing about peace through the treaty was firmly established and praised by Meiji leaders, cabinet members, and national figures.

In his later years, Komura returned to his hometown with his butler and received a warm welcome. However, soon after, his health deteriorated, and he became emaciated. He spent his last days in a small house in Hayama, Kanagawa, under the watchful eye of his butler, and passed away at the age of 56. It is said that he did not leave behind any valuable belongings. It is also reported that Komura did not lead a happy family life.

As his life neared its end, it is uncertain how Komura viewed his career in service of the state and his family. It's unknown whether his life was happy or not. However, his butler continued to show him respect until the very end and fulfilled his duties. Today, the city of Obi, in Nichinan City, has become a sister city with Portsmouth, and international exchange is being carried out, including hosting visits by local students.

From Miyazaki to the World

Now, let's conclude. Miyazaki boasts a mild climate, rich nature of mountains and sea, and legends of the Hyuga mythology. By tracing its history and notable figures, we can also learn from the remains of the small feudal castle towns and the achievements of diplomatic officials who excelled in the Meiji period. Even from this short trip, it is clear that Miyazaki has numerous attractions to offer.

As the "land of mythology," it will be a challenge for Miyazaki to continue to draw on mythology as a regional revitalization theme. Additionally, can they cultivate individuals like Jutaro Komura, who can confidently engage with foreign countries? Perhaps peace can be a theme from which to develop ideas within the region.

In a prefecture where there are young people who love their hometown and want to continue living there while raising their children, there is no doubt that there is potential for the future.

I look forward to the new developments in Miyazaki, and with that, I will put down my pen.