The Hachiman of the Land of Abundance (Oita) and Globalists

2021/09/11

Celebrities from Oita

What kind of impression comes to mind when you hear about Oita Prefecture?

Although you may be aware of famous attractions such as the "Beppu Onsen" hot springs and "Nakatsu Karaage" fried chicken from this Kyushu prefecture, you may not have a clear overall image of the prefecture.

According to the Brand Research Institute's "Prefectural Attractiveness Ranking," Oita ranks in the early 20s, roughly in the middle of Japan, along with Miyazaki. On the other hand, in the same institute's "Happiness Ranking," although it may not compete for the top spot like Miyazaki and Okinawa, Oita ranked 3rd last year and 9th this year, indicating that it is not doing poorly.

While this survey suggests that Oita may not be a prominent presence nationwide, it is clear that local residents have an attachment to their hometown.

In fact, there are surprisingly many prominent people from Oita. Here are some names (honorifics omitted) in random order by age: former prime minister Tomiichi Murayama, architect Arata Isozaki, Canon Chairman Fujio Mitarai, NHK Chairman Akinobu Maeda. In addition, folk singer Kosetsu Minami and Shozo Ise, actress Eri Fukatsu, Fukuoka Mayor Soichiro Takashima, and singer Rina Sashihara are also from Oita.

If I were to draw a common thread among these individuals, it would be that they are unique, have strong communication skills, and possess a distinctive presence. However, it is difficult to imagine that the image of Oita is strongly associated with these famous people.

Not just "iichiko"

Let's explore further Oita's offerings. In recent years, there are several products that have gained nationwide fame originating from Oita.

Starting with alcohol, Oita's wheat shochu is well-known. Brands like "iichiko," "Kicchomu," and "Nikaido" are popular and have a commanding presence. Also, premium fish like "Seki aji" (horse mackerel), "Seki saba" (mackerel), "Shiroshita karei" (flatfish), and "Usuki fugu" (pufferfish) are popular menu items at Japanese restaurants. Furthermore, Oita's "Kanbutsu shiitake" (dried shiitake mushrooms) boasts the highest production volume in Japan, and Oita's citrus fruit "Kabosu" is becoming popular nationwide.

Indeed, thanks to these branded products, Oita may be perceived by consumers as approachable, luxurious, and special.

It seems that the rise of these Oita brands may have started during the tenure of former Oita Governor Morihiko Hiramatsu (1979-2003). As a famous story goes, the former governor himself acted as a salesman and introduced Oita's wheat shochu and kabosu to Tokyo's Japanese restaurants, accompanied by his then-classmate and the Governor of the Bank of Japan, Yasuo Mieno.

It is also worth noting that former Governor Hiramatsu embodied the Oita brand during his tenure, and I would like to introduce him at the end of this article.

Projection mapping in the Heian period

I visited Oita during the rainy season to explore what makes this region unique. Despite the short trip, I wanted to discover the characteristics of the area. To gain some insight, I visited the Oita Prefectural History Museum in Usa City and the Oita City Historical Materials Museum.

The first destination was Usa. It is about a 1 hour and 40 minute ride on the JR Nippo Line Limited Express from Hakata Station to Usa Station.

The Oita Prefectural History Museum is located near Usa Shrine in Usa. I took a taxi from the station and drove through rice paddies under the rainy season sky.

First of all, speaking of the overall impression of the museum, it was different from other museums I have visited in other prefectures, in that it focuses on the history of the region centered on Usa and Kunisaki Peninsula, rather than the entire prefecture, and that the theme is not politics but rather faith, daily life, Buddhist culture, and the Usa Shrine. It was surprising to learn that people in this area have long cherished prayer and religion tied to agriculture, and the museum seemed to want to convey that to visitors.

Inside the museum, there were magnificent life-size models of "Fukiji Temple" and "Kumano Magaibutsu," and a surprising projection mapping was being projected onto the models, allowing visitors to enjoy an unexpected CG experience of the past.

Appeared in a commercial

The Hall of Fukiji Temple (Amida Hall) was often featured in television commercials in 2014, so many people may remember it. In the commercial, which advertised premium beer, Fukuyama Masaharu stood with the temple hall behind him as yellow gingko leaves danced in the background.

Fukiji Temple was established in 718 as the temple of the chief priest of Usa Jingu Shrine. The building is designated as a national treasure as the oldest wooden structure in Kyushu, and the main hall is one of the three major Amida halls in Japan, along with Byodo-in Phoenix Hall in Uji and Konjikido Hall in Chuson-ji Temple in Hiraizumi.

Fukiji Temple is one of the 65 temples that make up the Rokugo Manzan, a group of temples located on the ridges of the Kunisaki Peninsula, the easternmost part of Kyushu. Originally, it is said that the Hachiman deity of Usa Shrine became a bodhisattva and the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism spread in this area. Then, in the late Heian period, the Kunisaki Peninsula entered a period of prosperity for esoteric Buddhism and mountain Buddhism. Even today, a pilgrimage to the 31 temples is conducted in this area.

The projection mapping shows vividly colored images of people bustling around in front of the Fukiji Temple, bringing to life the scene of the past. The video stimulates the imagination and allows one to reflect on the prayers of the people who sought the Pure Land during the Heian period.

Mecca of Cliff Carvings

And I also enjoyed the projection mapping with the cliff-carved Buddha as a backdrop on the Kunisaki Peninsula.

In Oita, there are many stone Buddhas called "magai butsu" centered around the Kunisaki and Usuki areas. It is said that 60% to 70% of the magai butsu in Japan are concentrated here, with over 400 stone Buddhas. The region's mountains have layers of volcanic ash from Mt. Aso, which made it suitable for carving stone Buddhas. The beginning of magai butsu is said to date back to the Heian to Kamakura period when the Tendai sect's mountain Buddhism flourished in this area. The Kumanomagai butsu has statues of Fudo Myoo and Dainichi Nyorai and is believed to have attracted the faith of ascetics.

The projection mapping seems to be available until March of next year. It's a must-see as ancient scenery comes to life right before your eyes.

The oracle of Usa Jingu

Now, at the northern tip of the Kunisaki Peninsula stands the Usa Shrine.

The Usa Shrine is the head shrine of the Hachiman-gu, which is said to have over 40,000 shrines throughout Japan. It is said that the Hachiman deity appeared in the land of Usa in 571, and in 725 the shrine was built with Emperor Ojin enshrined as the main deity.

Historically, it is probably safe to say that the Usa Shrine had the greatest influence of all the shrines in Oita and had a significant impact throughout Japan. Let's take a look back at the history of this shrine.

The Haciman deity is believed to have originated as an agricultural deity of the ancient immigrants, and later was enshrined as the guardian deity of the Hachiman shrine's manors. Over time, the worship of Hachiman deity spread from the regions to the center of Japan.

The connection between the Imperial family, the court, and the Usa shirine  began with the deity's role as the protector of the southern Kyushu in the suppression of the rebellion by the Hayato people in 720, and the deity's assistance in the construction of the Great Buddha of Nara's Todai-ji Temple in 745. As a result of these events, the Usa Hachiman deity gained the trust of the Imperial court and was given the position of the guardian deity of the country.

The distinctive feature of Usa Shrine is that it delivered oracle to the imperial court. The Emperor would send an envoy to ask for oracle from Usa Hachiman Shrine when making important decisions for the country. This practice continued until the end of the Kamakura period, and it is said to have occurred more than 200 times. Even today, the path taken by the imperial envoys to Usa is preserved as the Chokushi-kaido, or the Envoys' Road.

One of the significant events in the history of the relationship between Usa Shrine and the Imperial Court was when the envoy, Wake no Kiyomaro, conveyed the oracle of Usa Hachiman to suppress the ambitions of the monk, Dōkyō, who sought to ascertain the emperor's position.

Usa Shrine entrusted the founding of Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine in 859 as a means of protection for the imperial family. Additionally, Hachiman deity became the protector of the Minamoto clan and led to the establishment of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine in Kamakura in 1063. During the Kamakura period, Hachiman deity was enshrined in the manors where samurai were appointed as local land stewards, and the faith spread throughout the country.

It can be imagined that the Usa Hachiman had significant influence over the imperial court and samurai class since ancient times.

It seems that the secret to why the Usa Shrine held such great power lies in the oracles mentioned earlier. The shrine had miko, or shrine maidens, who rode in palanquins from Usa to Nara to deliver the oracles. Additionally, at one point, the Usa Shrine owned one-third of the estates in Kyushu, which also contributed to its economic foundation.

By the way, the novelist Ryotaro Shiba speculates that the messenger who delivered the divine message to the imperial court was a shrine maiden who was likely politically savvy and beautiful. If a shrine maiden like Rina Sashihara had delivered a message from the gods in ancient times, it is easy to imagine the extent of her influence within the court.

In addition, the Usa Hachiman deity has traditionally been called the Hachiman Daibosatsu, indicating a desire for syncretism between Shinto and Buddhism. It is said that the Hachiman deity, who went to suppress the rebellion of the Hayato people, sought solace in Buddhism, and even today at the shrine, it seems that Shinto priests and Buddhist monks perform festivals together.

As a supplement, it is said that the Komo Shrine in Nakatsu City, which is also called the ancestral shrine of Usa Shrine, is located in the area. The Nakatsu and Usa regions have been prosperous rice-producing areas since ancient times when immigrants brought rice cultivation techniques. Moreover, according to historical records, many temples were built by powerful local landowners and Buddhism had taken root by the late 7th century. By the way, the northeastern part of Kyushu, including Usa and Nakatsu, is called "Toyono-kuni" and the name "Toyo" is said to come from the abundant agricultural products, according to the "Bungo Province Fudoki".

Once every six years, a Shinto ritual called "Gyōkō-e" is held, where participants parade from Usa Shrine to the Kunisaki Peninsula and the Komo Shrine in Nakatsu. Additionally, every autumn, the "Hōjō-e" ceremony is held to appease the spirits of those who died in the suppression of the Hayato Rebellion.

In ancient times, the Imperial army led by Ōtomo no Tabito marched to southern Kyushu to carry the sacred object of Usa Hachiman deity. It seems that the Usa Shrine was also related to the governance of all of Kyushu and the protection of the state.

Bungo's land and Otomo Sorin

Next, I headed to the Historical Materials Museum located in Oita City. I visited primarily to learn about Otomo Sorin. The museum is situated near the site of the Bungo Kokubunji, a temple built in the 8th century to protect the country by Buddhism.

The Otomo clan was appointed as a shugo (military governor) in Bungo province since the Kamakura period, and they continued to rule as the rulers of the Bungo region for about 400 years. Otomo Sorin (1530-1587), who was also famous as a Christian feudal lord, was the 21st head of the Otomo clan, and became the head of the clan at the age of 20 in 1550.

The Otomo clan established their residence in Bungo Funai, which is now located in Oita City, and had a castle there. Bungo Funai had become the center of Bungo's administration and economy. It should be noted that historically, Bungo referred to the southeastern part of present-day Oita Prefecture, while Buzen referred to the northwestern part of Oita Prefecture and a part of Kitakyushu City in present-day Fukuoka Prefecture.

From his 20s, Sorin actively expanded his territory and at the height of his power, he had control over six domains: Bungo, Buzen, Hizen, Higo, Chikuzen, and Chikugo, as well as more than half of Hyuga and Iyo. Sorin engaged in active trade with Korea and China, accumulated wealth, and used it to expand his territory. Above all, Sorin protected Christianity, and his involvement in Nanban trade is thought to be the main reason for his prosperity.

In 1549, Francis Xavier of the Society of Jesus arrived in Kagoshima and conducted missionary activities in Nagasaki and Yamaguchi. In 1551, he was invited to Bungo by Sorin and allowed to spread Christianity. At that time, Portuguese ships frequently visited the coast of Bungo, and Portugal profited from trade as an intermediary between China and Japan, which had implemented a policy of maritime restrictions. Japan mainly exported silver and imported raw silk from China. Sorin was involved in this trade and appeared to have sought to monopolize trade with Portugal.

After Christianity was protected, churches and schools were established in the current Oita city, and Western medical hospitals and orphanages were built. Western music and drama were also introduced, and Christian culture flourished. It is said that there were about 50,000 believers in Bungo in 1587, accounting for about 17% of the estimated 300,000 believers nationwide at that time.

Although it may have been only a short period of 30 to 40 years in its long history, Bungo Funai was a city that saw the rapid spread of Christianity and trade earlier than Nagasaki. At that time, it was a bustling international trade city alongside Sakai, and Nanban culture flourished.

In his earlier years, Sorin was a follower of Zen Buddhism, but at the age of 48 in 1578, he converted to Christianity and was baptized. At that time, the name of Bungo and Sorin was well-known among Jesuits in various parts of Europe, and Sorin was perhaps the most famous person in Japan at that time, with Bungo being one of the most well-known place names. Jesuit documents and maps that have survived to this day attest to this.

However, despite his ambitions to conquer all of Kyushu, Sorin's momentum began to wane after his defeat in the Battle of Mimikawa against the Shimazu clan during the Hyuga expedition in 1578. Furthermore, in 1586, the Otomo clan was defeated by the Shimazu clan's invasion, and the city of Bungo Funai was destroyed. Sorin turned to Toyotomi Hideyoshi for support, and with his help, the Shimazu clan was pushed back. However, Sorin's son and successor would later suffer a defeat in the Bunroku-Keicho Korean War and be stripped of his territories by Hideyoshi, thus ending the Otomo clan's rule over Bungo. Sorin passed away in 1587, the same year that Hideyoshi's Kyushu campaign was successful. Shortly after, Hideyoshi issued the Bateren Tsuihō Order, banning Christianity in Kyushu.

In the turbulent era of the Warring States period, Sorin Otomo of Bungo established an era, and Oita City flourished as an international trading city. It is evident that Sorin, who protected Christianity, was a daimyo with a global perspective at the time. There are no "ifs" in history, but if the Otomo family had continued into the Edo period and Christianity had been tolerated with some restrictions, it is likely that Oita could have played a significant role in the Meiji era.

The leader named Morihiko Hiramatsu

Finally, let's move on to the topic of Morihiko Hiramatsu (1924-2016), the former governor who was mentioned earlier for his contributions to making Oita's brands well-known throughout the country.

First, let's introduce his profile.

Hiramsatsu was born in 1934 in Oita City. He received education in Kyushu and was mobilized as a student during the war, and served in the military on the island of Etorofu in the Kuril Islands, but returned to Hokkaido just before the Soviet invasion and witnessed the end of the war. After graduating from the University of Tokyo, he joined the Ministry of International Trade and Industry (now the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry), and caught the eye of the famous Vice Minister Shigeru Sahashi, rapidly advancing his career. He also worked on industrial location, pollution issues, and the development of the computer industry, and was promoted to deputy director-general, expanding his network with top executives in the private sector. Amidst all this, he was called upon by his hometown of Oita and decided to return, becoming a deputy governor. Later, he was elected governor in an election, and according to his own words, his life began like "two lives in one.”

Upon assuming office as the governor, Mr. Hiramatsu immediately advocated for the "One Village One Product Movement", which aimed at regional revitalization through the creation of unique local products in each city and town in the prefecture. He initiated a cultural movement that changed the mindset of the local people and established the "Yutaka-no-kuni-zukuri Juku" academy to foster leaders in the field. Through these efforts, many famous brands that later became nationally recognized were born, and the governor's vision became a reality in product sales and tourism.

During his term, Oita attracted the Soccer World Cup and the J-League Oita Trinita was also established. Additionally, tourism development in Yufuin progressed, Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University (APU) was brought to Oita, and the Beppu Argerich Music Festival also started. At the time, Oita was a topic of national conversation and drew attention.

During his tenure as governor from 1979 to 2003, Hiramatsu became a leader in the era of regional revitalization, advocating for the introduction of a system of state and regional governance, among other initiatives, and attracting nationwide attention for his energetic activities. In each of the six elections held during his time in office, he won between 73% and 88% of the vote, indicating enormous support from the people of Oita. It is worth noting that per capita income in Oita Prefecture surpassed that of Fukuoka, and became the highest in Kyushu.

In addition, Mr. Hiramatsu was a visionary who advocated for GNS (Gross National Satisfaction) as a target indicator for the happiness of the prefecture's citizens, rather than just focusing on GNP. Despite leaving behind many accomplishments, he retired at the age of 80.

Think globally, act locally

Hiramatsu often quoted the phrase "think globally, act locally." While he was a local governor, he had a broad perspective and envisioned the future of the region while keeping up with the global trends. He also advocated that Kyushu should play a role in economic and cultural exchange with foreign countries that is separate from the national level.

He emphasized cooperation with China, South Korea, and Southeast Asia, and also proposed the concept of an Asian economic zone. The "One Village One Product Movement" also spread throughout Asia, and its achievements were recognized when he received the Ramon Magsaysay Award, often called the Nobel Prize of Asia, in 1995.

A land of abundance with rich hearts

Now, I have introduced three different topics that span different time periods, featuring the same gods and people: Usa Hachiman, Sorin Otomo, and Morihiko Hiramatsu.

So, what is the unique characteristic of Oita, which is the theme of this article? Let's wrap up with that.

Looking at the history of Usa Hachiman Shrine, it had tremendous influence across Japan, promoting the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism while spreading its beliefs widely from the imperial family to the common people.

Furthermore, although it was a brief period, Sorin Otomo promoted the acceptance of Western artifacts and Christianity, and expanded Nanban trade to establish one of the leading provinces. In the early modern era of Japan, he was perhaps the foremost globalist.

Looking at this history, it seems that the land of Oita had sufficient flexibility to embrace universal religions such as Buddhism and Christianity.

And then, with his outstanding performance, Hiramatsu promoted the "One Village One Product Movement" and built an unusually high-level network with various countries around the world as a form of inter-municipal exchange.

The characteristics of Oita could be described as flexibility, communicative power, and a global outlook. It can also be said that these qualities were supported by strong leadership and a conducive environment.

I hope to continue sharing about my hometown of Oita, while being conscious of these characteristics that have been introduced here.

Finally, Mr. Hiramatsu used the phrase 'Rich in both material and spiritual wealth, the Land of Abundance' as a catchphrase for Oita.

I think it is a phrase that can be applied to any region or country.

When it comes to Oita, it brings to mind an image of a prefecture rich in both material and spiritual aspects. Personally, I hope to fulfill a role in repaying my hometown through conveying this image.