和の家庭出汁の戦略的取り方 Strategic way to make Japanese homemade dashi broth
常備菜研究室
Food Preparation Laboratory
ストーリー
Recipe trivia
主夫（主婦）は忙しい。これだけで会社勤めに匹敵する大仕事だ。共働きだったり、子供の数が多ければ尚更である。
この任務に負けて疲れ果て中途で戦線離脱しないためには立ち向かうためには、戦略と戦術が重要。丸腰で徒手空拳では長続きはしやしない。兵站と装備も、場合によっては裏技であるキッチンハックも必要になってくる。会社なら分担してくれる部下がいるけど、家庭ではパートナーと二人、最悪の場合は一人でこれを受け持たなければならない。
では、高価な年利家電を買えば済む話なのだろうか？そうではない。現代生活において最低限の装備というものはあるのだけど、高度すぎる装備に振り回されるのもいただけない。
まずは兵站を整え、既存装備の運用をきちんと行うことから始めよう。キッチンでは、兵站は「常備在庫食材」を常に持つこと、装備の運用は必要十分な道具を駆使していわゆる「常備菜」を用意しておくことを意味する。
Being a househusband (housewife) is busy. This alone is a big job comparable to working in a company. It is even more so if both partners are working or there are many children.
In order to not lose this mission and become exhausted and leave the front line halfway, strategy and tactics are important to face it. You can't last long if you are unarmed and empty-handed. Logistics and equipment, and in some cases, kitchen hacks, which are secret techniques, are also necessary. At work, there are subordinates who will share the work, but at home, you have to take on this with your partner, or in the worst case, you have to take on this alone.
So, is it enough to just buy expensive household appliances? No. There is a minimum level of equipment in modern life, but it's not good to be at the mercy of equipment that is too advanced.
First, start by preparing logistics and making sure your existing equipment is in order. In the kitchen, logistics means having a "standby stock of ingredients" at all times, and equipment operation means using the necessary tools to prepare "ready-to-use cooking products."
今回は、まず最初に、和の料理の出発点になる乾物を活用した「出汁」を取ることを習慣づけるための戦術について考えてよう。常備の乾物として昆布、煮干、鰹節を挙げることができる。これが兵站。出汁を取ってすぐ使えるようにしてしておくことが装備の運用だ。
エンジンと武器を整備し、いつでも出撃できる準備をしておくわけだ。
ベジタリアン用の出汁は以前紹介したので、そちらを参考にして欲しい。
This time, let's first think about tactics for making it a habit to make "dashi" (basic broth for Japanese food) using dried foods, which is the starting point of Japanese cuisine. Examples of dried foods that are always on hand include kelp, dried sardines, and dried bonito. This is logistics. Making dashi and having it ready to use is equipment management.
This means maintaining the engine and weapons and being ready to go at any time.
I have previously introduced vegetarian dashi, so please refer to that.
乾物は常温で保管できる。つまり冷蔵庫という装備を必要としない。電気を使わないから電気代を節約できる(ここではエコロジカルだとか持続可能だとかの偉そうな話はあえてしない。貧乏人がたいそうな機材を買い込まされて膨大な電気代を払い続ける社会はエコロジカルな社会ではないので、家庭の節約を突き詰めれば、帰結は自ずと見えてくるからだ）。日本では深刻な災害の備えにもなる。冷蔵庫も大きなものは要らない。
また、僕のやり方で作った出汁は冷蔵庫で３日ほど保管できるので、これを作っておくと、いろいろな料理に応用できる。広義の常備菜として多めに作って置くと忙しくてもちゃんとした出汁を使った料理を作る習慣ができてくる。
自分で出汁を取ることのもう一つの意味は、市販の出来合いの出汁に入っている添加物の正体が分かるということだ。僕は化学系添加物自体の良し悪しについては特に議論しない。化学系添加物の入った出汁にはメリットもあるしデメリットもある。その両方を理解した上で各個人がその製品を使いたいかどうかを判断すれば良いことだ。僕は、技術屋さんとして、自然の添加物であろうと化学合成系添加物であろうと、その役割がわからないまま使うのが気持ち悪いだけなのだ。僕と同じ意見の人は、メーカーやマスコミや専門家が何を言おうと、自分で両方使ってみて味を比べてみるべきだ。実験は裏切らない。出汁の伝統レシピに価値があるかどうかは、受け売りではなく、自分で体験して確かめるべきだと思う。
Dried foods can be stored at room temperature. In other words, there is no need for a refrigerator. Since it does not use electricity, it saves on electricity bills. (I will not get into any big talk about being ecological or sustainable here. A society in which poor people are forced to buy expensive equipment and continue to pay huge electricity bills is not an ecological society, so if you focus on saving money at home, the result becomes obvious.) In Japan, it also helps prepare for serious disasters. You do not need a large refrigerator.
Also, the dashi made using my method can be stored in the refrigerator for about three days, so if you make a lot of it, you can use it in various dishes. If you make a lot of it as a multi-purpose dashi, you will get into the habit of making dishes using proper dashi even when you are busy.
Another meaning of making your own dashi is that you can find out the true nature of the additives in ready-made dashi that is sold in stores. I do not particularly discuss the social pros and cons of chemical additives. Dashi containing chemical additives has both advantages and disadvantages. It is up to each individual to decide whether they want to use the product after understanding both. As an engineer, I just feel uncomfortable using additives, whether natural or synthetic, without understanding their role. People who share my opinion should try both and compare the taste, no matter what the manufacturers, media, or experts say. Experiments never disappoint. I think that whether traditional dashi recipes have value or not should be confirmed by personal experience, rather than relying on experts.
煮干と鰹節は両方使う。よく料理番組や雑誌で、専門家が昆布と鰹節を使った上品な出汁を紹介しているが、はっきり言ってその出汁は家庭料理には向かない。割烹と家庭では料理の提供方法が違うからだ。
日本の割烹はフランスの料理店のように料理をコース仕立てで一皿一皿を順番に提供する。素材も厳選した数品のシンプルな組み合わせが多い。お吸い物を例にあげれば、旬の食材一品か二品に出汁を注いで提供する。素材が主役だから出汁の味付けは最小限にして素材を際立たせる。だから、昆布と鰹節だけを使い、しかも上品な成分だけ短時間で出汁を抽出する。
これに対して、日本の家庭では、ご飯と惣菜、漬物、すまし汁ないし味噌汁を同時に提供する。惣菜と汁とご飯、漬物を交互に食べるのが家庭の作法だ。だから淡白なご飯に対して汁も惣菜も味は濃いめにする。一品づつ味わう割烹料理に比べて味は濃いめになる。ここに上品な割烹仕様の出汁を持ってきて美味しいわけはない。また、短時間に抽出する割烹出汁は大量の昆布と鰹節を使う。家庭には高くつくし、大量に出る出汁がらの処分に困る。だから普通の主婦は、出汁の素とか麺つゆとか白だしとかの化学系調味料に走ることになる。経済的だしゴミも出ない。専門家は出汁の取り方の解説はしても、出汁がらの始末の仕方を教えてくれない場合が多い。
僕は仕事柄シェフの作った賄いをいただくことが多いのだけど、一流のコース料理を出す料理人でも賄いの汁が美味しくないことが多い。味が薄いのだ。味噌汁に至っては完全に味噌に負けて味がしないか、出汁の味を残すように味噌を申し訳くらいの量しか溶かないので今度は味噌の香りが活かせていないかのどっちかになる。だいぶ前に亡くなった料理研究家の小林カツ代が一流シェフに向かって、「そんな上品な出汁の取り方をしていたら味なんか出やしないよ。あんた家庭料理を知らないね！」と叱りつけてるのを見て、拍手してしまった。だから、ここで紹介する家庭用の出汁は煮干も使うし、よくある理想的な出汁の取り方はあえて無視している。疑いのある方は自分で作って検証してみて欲しい。僕のやり方がベストかどうかはわからないが、何らかの示唆にはなると思う。
Both dried sardines and dried bonito flakes are used. On cooking shows and in magazines, experts often introduce elegant dashi broth made with kelp and dried bonito flakes, but frankly, that dashi broth is not suitable for home cooking. This is because the way of serving food is different between traditional Japanese restaurants and homes.
In Japanese traditional restaurants, the food is served in a similar way to the way courses are served in French restaurants, that is, dishes are served one by one in order. There are many simple combinations of only a few carefully selected ingredients. For example, in the case of clear soup, one or two seasonal ingredients are served with dashi poured over them. Since the ingredients are the main focus, the seasoning of the dashi is kept to a minimum to highlight the ingredients. Therefore, only kelp and dried bonito flakes are used, and only the elegant ingredients are extracted in a short time to make the dashi broth.
In contrast, in Japanese homes, rice, side dishes, pickles, and clear soup or miso soup are served at the same time. The way of serving food in homes is to alternate between side dishes, soup, rice, and pickles. Therefore, the soup and side dishes are made to be strong-flavored compared to the plain rice. The taste is stronger than that of Kappo cuisine, which is enjoyed one dish at a time. There is no way that a high-class Kappo-style broth would taste good here. Also, Kappo broth, which is extracted in a short time, uses a large amount of kelp and bonito flakes. It is too expensive for the household, and it is difficult to dispose of the large amount of broth residue. That is why ordinary housewives turn to chemical seasonings such as dashinomoto(soup stock powder), mentsuyu(noodle soup base), and shirodashi(clear soup stock base). It is economical and does not produce waste. Experts explain how to make broth, but in many cases they do not teach how to dispose of the broth residue.
Because of my job, I often eat staff meals (often the same composition as home cooking) made by chefs, but even chefs who prepare first-class course meals often do not taste good in Japanese-style soups. The taste is weak. When it comes to miso soup, it is either completely overpowered by the miso and has no taste, or the miso is only dissolved in a small amount to retain the flavor of the broth, so the aroma of the miso is not utilized. I applauded when I saw the deceased culinary researcher Katsuyo Kobayashi scold a top chef, saying, "If you make dashi in such a refined way, it won't taste good. You don't know home cooking!" That's why the home dashi I'm introducing here also uses dried sardines, and I've deliberately ignored the commonly used ideal way to make dashi. If you have doubts, please try making it yourself. I don't know if my method is the best, but I think it will give you some ideas.
Ingredients:
材料：
昆布
鰹節（無くても良い）
煮干
自然塩
薄口醤油
Konbu kelp
Dried bonito flakes(optional)
Dried sardines
Natural salt
light style soy sauce
procedure:
手順:
昆布と頭と内臓を除いた煮干しを水に一晩浸しておく。急ぐ場合は、それ以下の時間、あるいはこの工程は省いても良い。
鰹節は削っておく。もちろん削ってあるものを使っても良い。
鍋に浸し水と一緒に昆布と煮干しを入れ強火にかける。沸騰する直前で火力を落として、鰹節を入れ、強めの弱火で１０分くらい煮出し、火を止める。
出汁がらを濾して出汁を鍋に戻し、塩を必要と思う量の半量入れ、薄口醤油をほんの少し垂らすして、再度加熱し沸騰寸前で火を止めて、鍋ごと冷やす。この時点では、出汁の風味は十分あるけど、塩気は全然物足りないな、という着地点で良い。
冷えたら、消毒した容器に移して冷蔵庫で保管する。
冷蔵庫で３日は保存が可能。
Soak the kelp and the dried sardines with their heads and innards removed in water overnight. If you're in a hurry, you can soak them for less time or skip this step.
Shave the katsuobushi. You can of course use pre-shaved ones.
Put the kelp and dried sardines in a pot with soaked water and bring to a boil over high heat. Just before it boils, turn the heat down, add the katsuobushi, and simmer over low heat for about 10 minutes, then turn off the heat.
Strain out the stock remains and return the stock to the pot, add half the amount of salt you think is needed, add a little light type soy sauce, heat again, turn off the heat just before it boils, and cool the pot quickly. At this point, the stock should have a good flavor, but it's not salty enough at all.
Once it's cooled, transfer to a sterilized container and store in the refrigerator.
It can be stored in the refrigerator for 3 days.
Tips and tricks:
コツと応用のヒント：
材料はお椀たっぷり一杯の出汁を取るのに、中ぶりの煮干一匹、昆布３センチくらい、鰹節は３本の指で摘めるくらいが目安量。鰹節を使わず煮干しだけの場合は煮干しを倍にする。すまし汁や茶碗蒸し、だし巻きに使うの限定なら、煮干し入れず、鰹節の量を2、３倍にしても良い。
また、ものすごく上品な出汁を取りたいならはば、煮干は入れず、他の材料を２、３倍量入れ、長くは煮出さないで、鰹節を入れて沸騰したところで、すぐ濾してしまう。材料も厳選する。こっちを突き詰めるなら、鰹節の種類にも注目したい。鰹節には熟成タイプの「枯れ節」と乾燥しただけの「削り節」があり、さらに背か腹かでも味わいが違う。削ったものにもいくつかのタイプが存在する。この辺りは、江戸時代から続く老舗「にんべん」のホームページが詳しいので、興味のある人は参照すると良いだろう。
To make a full bowl of soup, you will need one medium-sized dried sardine, about 3 cm of kelp, and a three-finger pinch of dried bonito flakes. If you are using only dried sardines and no dried bonito flakes, double the amount. If you are only using it for clear soup, chawanmushi, or rolled omelet, you can leave out the dried sardines and use two or three times the amount of dried bonito flakes.
Also, if you want to make an extremely refined soup, don't add dried sardines, but add two or three times the amount of other ingredients, don't boil it for long, and when you add the dried bonito flakes and boil it, strain it immediately. You should also be very careful with your ingredients. If you want to get to the bottom of this, you should also pay attention to the type of dried bonito. There are mature types of dried bonito called "karebushi" and simply dried "kezuribushi ", and the taste also differs depending on whether they are from the back or belly. There are also several types of shaved bonito. For more information on this, please refer to the website of "Ninben", a long-established company that has been in business since the Edo period, which has a long history.
僕は自家用には、けずり粉と砕片削りを使っている。僕がけずり粉や砕片削りを使う理由は、体裁を気にしなければ同じ品質のものがより安価だからだ。透明度に少しの違いは出るが、出る出汁は変わらない。これを使う時は不織布でできた袋を使うと濾す手間が要らない。
鰹節はもちろん、一本丸のままを買ってきて自分で削っても良い。削り立ては一段香りが違う。懐の余裕があればだけど、伝統の鰹節削り器が面倒なら、とても良い削り器「愛工業 オカカ」という逸品がある。ハンドルを回すだけで、職人顔負けの削り節がその場で削れる。オススメだ。僕も仕事で単価の高いターゲット相手の時はちゃんとその場で削ることもある。対面でない場合はこの削り器を使うこともある。実は手間を厭わなければ、削り節は加工賃が入っているから、丸ごと買えばその分安くなる。
For my own use, I use dried bonito powder and crushed bonito flakes. The reason I use dried bonito powder and crushed bonito flakes is that if you don't care about appearance, the same quality is cheaper. There will be a slight difference in transparency, but the broth will not change. If you use this and use a bag made of non-woven fabric, you won't have to strain it.
Of course, you can buy whole bonito and shave them yourself. Freshly shaved bonito have a different aroma. If you have the money, but don't want to bother with a traditional bonito shaving tools, there is a very good shaving machine called the "Ai industry Okaka." Just turn the handle and you can shave bonito on the spot to rival the skill of a craftsman. I recommend it. I also shave them on the spot when I work with high-priced targets. If I'm not face-to-face, I sometimes use this shaving machine. In fact, if you don't mind the effort, bonito flakes include a processing fee, so it will be cheaper to buy the whole thing.
このレシピで１０分煮出しているのはあえて濃い出汁を取るためだ。一般的に、鰹節や煮干は長く煮出すと苦味や嫌味が出る。煮干は一晩水で抽出するだけでも十分な出汁が出る。昆布も沸騰させるの滑りや海藻臭さが出てくる。だから割烹出汁は煮干は使わず、昆布は沸騰寸前に引き上げ、沸騰したらすぐに鰹節も漉してしまう。ただ、これは相手がものすごく繊細なほとんど塩や少量の薄口醤油の場合に有効な出汁。濃口醤油や砂糖や過剰な味醂を入れれば消し飛んでしまうレベルの気遣いなのだ。だから、当然、下町料理や家庭料理レベルでは気にする必要はない。小林先生のおっしゃるように長めに煮出してしっかり旨みを搾り出すのが正解だと僕は思う。
The reason for boiling for 10 minutes in this recipe is to make a strong broth. Generally, dried bonito flakes and dried small sardines become bitter or unpleasant if boiled for a long time. Dried small sardines can be extracted in water overnight to make a sufficient broth. If you boil kelp, it will become slippery and have a seaweed smell. That's why high-end Japanese restaurants only use dried bonito flakes and no dried small sardines, and they pull the kelp out just before it boils, and as soon as it boils, they strain out the dried bonito flakes. However, this is only effective when the ingredients are very delicate, with mostly salt and a small amount of light type soy sauce. This is a level of consideration that would disappear if you added dark type soy sauce, sugar, or excessive mirin. So, of course, there is no need to worry about it at the level of downtown cuisine or home cooking. I think the right answer is to boil it for a long time as and squeeze out the full flavor Mrs Kobayashi said.
最後の仕上げで、薄めの味付けをしている理由は、保存のためだ。出汁はアミノ酸の塊だから腐りやすい。そこで塩味をつけておくわけだ。人によって用途は違うと思うけど、僕は西の出自なので、いわゆる「薄味（よくある誤解だけど塩が薄いという意味ではない）」の料理、野菜の焚き物やうどんつゆなども頻繁に作るので、塩をベースに薄口醤油を垂らした仕上げにしている。ただ、ここを起点にして味を足す余地を残が残るように、味付けは半分にとどめている。
このままで、たこ焼きやお好み焼きの粉を解くのに使ったり、もう少し塩を足して、茶碗蒸しやだし巻きに入れたり、関西系うどんのつゆに仕立てたり、ちょっと薄口を増やして、野菜の和え物や野菜の焚き物に使ったり、砂糖とお酢を足して二杯酢や三杯酢にしたり、かえし（味醂と濃口醤油を煮て寝かしたもの）を加えて、どんぶりのつゆや関東風のそばつゆや関東焚きに仕立てたり、いろいろと応用が広がる。自家製の無添加しろだしといったところだろうか。
出汁の運用については、おでん出汁のレシピでも触れているので、もっと追求したいなら、そちらも合わせてご参照いただきたい。
最後に、出汁がらの活用法が重要で、それを欠いては戦略として片手落ちと言わざる得ない。そちらについては、改めて別の記事で紹介するつもりです。
The reason for the final finishing touch, which is lightly seasoned, is for preservation. Dashi is a mass of amino acids, so it spoils easily. That's why it's salted. I think the uses vary from person to person, but since I'm from the west, I often make so-called "usuaji / lightly seasoned" dishes (this doesn't mean lightly salted, as is the common misconception), such as vegetable stews and udon soup. That's why I finish it with a salt base and a drizzle of light type soy sauce so that it can be used for both western and eastern Japanese dishes. However, I only season it half way so that there is room to add more flavor from this starting point.
I use it as it is to dissolve the flour for takoyaki and okonomiyaki, add a little more salt and put it in chawanmushi and dashimaki, make it into a Kansai-style udon soup, or add a little more light type soy sauce and use it for vegetable salads and vegetable stews. You can add sugar and vinegar to make nihaizu or sanbaizu (used like a dressing in Japan), or add kaeshi (simmered mirin and dark type soy sauce that have been left to sit) to make donburi sauces , Kanto-style soba soup, or Kanto-style oden. It has many applications. It's like a homemade additive-free shirodashi (a popular commercial instant dashi that tastes like high-end cuisine).
The use of dashi is also mentioned in the oden dashi recipe, so if you want to delve deeper, please refer to that as well.
Finally, it is important to know how to use the leftover stock. Without it, the strategy is incomplete. I will introduce that in another article.
Guide to where to get ingredients and equipment 材料と機材の入手先ガイド
この記事が気に入ったらサポートをしてみませんか？