GIP LEVEL 3 - DAY 2: 100種類の香料嗅ぎ分け特訓２ (No.19-37)

フランスのグラースにある調香学校、Grasse Institute of Perfumeryのレベル３クラスを受講しました。その授業の記録です。

7月13日（火）24:00　

2日目。昨日の続きです。
新しい香料100種類をひたすらブラインドで嗅ぎ、香りを表現しながら何の香料かを考えていくトレーニングをしています。

こちらには香りの表現をメモします。

Raw Materials 100

#19　Methyl pamplemousse     Top
citrusy grapefruit, fresh, green, spicy, sparkling, juicy, slightly floral rosy, fruity, passion fruit aspect, slightly green, add modernity
€50-70/kg

#20　Jasmine Sambac     Middle/Base
orange flower like, sweet honey like, fruity green banana, narcotic, animalic, indolic, slightly clove bud like, green, heavy
€4000-6000/kg
cf. Jasmin G = more animalic, more orange flower like

#21　Raspberry ketone     Base
calm, non diffusive, quiet, sweet, fruity red berry, powdery, warm
smelling strip上では香りが弱いけどコンポジションでは強いので量に注意
fruity noteのbase noteは珍しいので重宝

#22　Mate absolute     Base
green, herbaceous, tea like, soft powdery, vegetal, leafy, sweet, fruity apricoty, hay like, tobacco like, slightly leathery
€800-2000/kg
0.1-5% (finished productsに占める割合)
for green tea, tobacco, green marine accord 

#23　Methyl ionone gamma     Middle
ionone, floral violet like, fruity redberry raspberry like, plastic aspect, woody, lipstick aspect
€50/kg
0.2-12%
tobacco accord

#24　Guiac wood oil     Base
smoked ham, BBQ smell, spict, paprika like, salty&sweet, floral, black tea direction
€40-60/kg
0.1-10%

#25　Jasmonal H = Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde     Middle
green aspect, floral muguet jasmine, clean, soapy, natural waxy,  fruity strawberry like, spicy cinnamic
€20/kg
0.5-10%

#26　Corriander seed oil     Top/Middle
fresh herbal, thyme like, fresh lemony, linalool like, comphoraceous, terpenic, citrysy, fresh floral
€150-200/kg
1-5%

#27　Elemi     Top
fresh, pink pepper like, terpenic, fruity citrusy lime, olibanum like
安い
resinousでTop noteなので重宝。
pink pepperとfrankincenseを足した香り。

#28　Violet leaf abs     Top/Middle
violet leaf abs like, green, intense, leafy, floral
€1000-3000/kg
0.2-2%
mimosa, marine accord

#29　Phenyl Acetic Acid     Middle/Base
honey like, PEA like, uncomfortable, phenolic, leatheric, animalic, dirty facet, sour, acidic, greesy, floral rosy
€15/kg
0.02-3%

#30　Oranger crystals     Base
floral orange flower like, mimosa like, creamy, coconut, powdery, almondy
いっぱい入れるとflattenになるので注意

#31　Chamomile Roman oil     Top/Middle
floral, fruity baked apple, pineapple like, herbaceous, whisky, sweet, tea facet, tobacco like
€600/kg
0.02-0.03%
for Oriental composition

#32　Carrot seed oil     Top/Middle
aromatic, resinous, sweet, woody, fruity riped apricoty, cinnamon, clove, dusty, powdery, orris like
0.02-2%
orrisのreplaceでmore unisex

#33　Nutmeg     Top/Middle
spicy, nutmeg, tasty, dry, terpenic, woody, medicinal aspect, slightly citrusy

#34　Sandalore     Base
oily, fatty, creamy, sandalwood like, fresh marine aspect
€30-40/kg
Sandaloreはdeep、Bacdanolはtop (slightly soapy)
Rose + Javanol/Osyrolが相性良い

#35　Hay absolute     Base
dry herbaceous, tea like, fruity apricoty, sweet honey like, tobacco like, hay like
€2,000-3,000/kg
0.2-2%
for tea accord, black tea aspect

#36　Styrallyl acetate     Top
artificial, plastic, bitter aspect, fruity rhubarb like, green leafy, sharp, strong, metallic, floral gardenia tuberose, fruity strawberry aspect
€10-50/kg
0.02-5%
+ Ald C-16でイチゴになる
Rose noteのboostになる

#37　Blackcurrant buds absolute     Top/Middle
green, fruity black currant, intense, sour, woody, terpenic, piny, sulfurous, clean minty, long lasting
€2000/kg
0.02-0.5%

つづく