GIP LEVEL 3 - DAY 3: 100種類の香料嗅ぎ分け特訓３ (No.38-56)

フランスのグラースにある調香学校、Grasse Institute of Perfumeryのレベル３クラスを受講しました。その授業の記録です。

7月14日（水）24:00　

3日目。昨日の続きです。
新しい香料100種類をひたすらブラインドで嗅ぎ、香りを表現しながら何の香料かを考えていくトレーニングをしています。

こちらには香りの表現をメモします。

#38　Benzaldehyde     Top
strong, sweet, gourmand, almondy, top top note, amarette like, cherry, volatile
€5-15/kg

#39　Tuberose     Middle/Base
floral, sensual, narcotic, creamy, lactonic, spicy, green, coconuty, heavy, medicinal aspect, solar, salty&sweet, powdery, phenolic
€10,000/kg

#40　Myrrh     Middle/Base
woody, vetiver like, fruity citrus, licorice, leathery, mushroomy, heavy, terpenic, gluish, plastic

#41　諸事情によりなし

#42　Birch Tar     Base
woody, smoky, sweet, BBQ, ham like, intense, strong, tar like, slightly balsamic, leathery, animalic, warm
€100-200/kg
0.01-0.5%
fireplace accord

#43　Mandarine aldehyde     Top/Middle
salty, green, aldehydic, metallic, corriander leaves like, citrus peel, mandarine peel
€150/kg
0.1-0.2%
add tenacity to citrus accord

#44　Cistus oil     Base
herbal, cooling aspect, warm, slightly herbaceous, slightly green, earthy, woody, sweet, phenolic, leathery, ambery
€1000/kg
0.05-5%
Cistus - wood, leaves, gum resin ---> many facet, leathery, woody
Labdanum - gum resin ---> balsamic, rounder

#45　Tonalide     Base
musky, warm, gentle, soapy, piny, dusty, earthy, beet root
€20-40/kg
0.5-10%
white musk for men
no overdose（earthyが目立つため）

#46　Magnolia flower oil     Middle
lavender like, linalool like, dark chocolate?, slightly minty, fruity apple, spicy eugenol, metallic, soapy, watery
€2000/kg

#47　Black pepper     Top/Middle
peppery, bergamot like, terpenic, piny, earthy, woody, spicy
€150/kg
0.05-1%
Pink pepper ---> more citrusy, sparkling, fruity exotic, passion fruit like

#48　Atlas Cedarwood = Moroccan cedarwood     Base
creamy, velvety, heavy, warm, fresh, aromatic, sweet, almondy, floral, rich, mimosa-like, leathery
=blue cedar, silver cedar
€40-60/kg
0.2-4$

#49　Basil oil (Estragol Chemotype)     Top/Middle
anisic, fennel like, tarragon like, eucalyptus, cooling, estragol, floral herbaceous, sweet spearmint like, spicy eugenol
€500/kg

#50　Damask Rose absolute (Turkey)     Middle/Base
floral rosy, eugenol like, powdery, fruity plum apple lychee, sweet honey
€2,500/kg
cf. Bulgarian ---> more green, watery, fatty, diffusive, sticky

#51　Cyclamen aldehyde     Middle
marine, water, water melon, ozonic, transparent, slightly green, floral muguet, soapy
€10-20/kg
2% maximum

#52　Cassis Base     Middle
fruity, juicy, blackcurrant, passionfruit, mango, citrusy, cassis, floral rosy, hedione like
€200/kg
0.01-0.02%
Roseをmodernにする
Hedioneと相性良い

#53　Floralozone     Top/Middle/Base
watery, aquatic, fruity melon, ozonic, aldehydic, floral, metallic, anisic, green, cold, most ozonic, plasticy
0.1-10%
long lasting - Top to Last
for lilac accord

#54　Isobutyl Quinoline Pyralone (IBQ)     Base
gasoline, phenolic, green, vegetable, galbanum, bitter, smoky, leathery, very intense, tobacco
€250/kg
0.02-1%

#55　Menthol     Top
cooling, minty, menthol like, clean, fresh, clean, peppermint like
€20-40/kg
0.01-10%

#56　Orris Concrete     Middle/Base
floral violet orris, bitter chocolate, powdery, fruity carrot, makeup, classic, bitter cocoa, rooty, buttery, woody
€12,000/kg - concrete, €40,000/kg - abs
tracy, old-fashion 
+sandalwoodでsensual

つづく